Marco Marchi: «The listing would strengthen the group»

Italy needs a tricolor fashion hub, and Marco Marchi has never hidden his ambition to create one. «The country must take responsibility for building this platform and become a catalyst for brands. I have always nurtured a deep love for made in Italy and its supply chain, a great heritage envied by the entire world and in which I strongly believe», the entrepreneur and sole director of Eccellenze italiane holding – Eih, freshly appointed to the presidency of Coin, told MFF.

The manager is already taking his steps in this direction. The negotiations to take over a new brand in the premium fashion segments, which MFF anticipated during Pitti Bimbo in Florence last month, are in fact at an advanced stage and will close within two months. However, the brand in question is still top secret. Meanwhile, Eccellenze italiane, which controls the Marche-based footwear company Eli group, Liu Jo (a brand founded by Marchi, ed.), and the historic Blufin group that owns, among others, Blumarine, is preparing to close the 2022 fiscal year in double-digit growth, approaching the 500-million-revenue target set for the current fiscal year.

Eih is effectively becoming an Italian fashion hub. Is that a goal of yours?

It is an ambition that I have never hidden. Italy must take responsibility for building this platform and becoming a catalyst for brands. We have a lot of interesting brands, but it is the size that makes the difference and allows them to impose themselves on the global scene. However, even after an acquisition there must always be great respect for brands and their tradition. It is essential to share a virtuous path with them.

In this regard, have there been any developments in the negotiations anticipated to MFF last month?

I confirm that we plan to welcome another brand from the premium fashion segment into our portfolio. We are in the closing stages and the legal and administrative contacts of both parties are working out the details. We expect to finalize the transaction within two months.

Would you consider other acquisitions at the supply chain level?

We have always believed in the Italian supply chain, which has proven to be a great asset envied by the entire world. In fact, we took over Eli group, an industrial facility in the Marche region, which are the heart of the footwear district.

Last week you signed a joint venture through Eli group with Pinko for shoes. What is the goal?

The Pinko shoes NewCo simply shows how entrepreneurs who greatly respect made in Italy — on one side founder and ceo of Pinko Pietro Negra and his wife Cristina Rubini, who hold 51% through the parent company Cris Conf. S.p.a., and on the other Marchi and Maurizio Croceri, co-founder and ceo of Eli group, which holds 49%, ed., can find an agreement to work in synergy. We set a goal of 40 million in sales in six years, but we are always careful to set realistic targets. So, we hope to reach and exceed this figure even faster.

Have you ever thought about the Stock market?

I have always wanted to give continuity to this group. I have always believed that special operations should be an opportunity. I believe that a possible listing is a step that would ensure solidity, as giving continuity to the company is also an ethical duty to the people who work with us.

Speaking of the group’s brands, what projects do you have in store for Liu Jo?

We are working on its repositioning through more glam storytelling. On this point, we have just launched the first chapter of everybody, the new spring-summer 2023 communication campaign dedicated to the brand’s footwear celebrating and conveying naturalness, sharing, energy and inclusiveness. However, communication has overall always been Liu Jo’s hallmark. In fact, over the years it has focused first on denim, then on bags, and now on shoes. For women’s day on march 8, we will also unveil a campaign dedicated to denim and designed to emphasize the concept of freedom of expression.

How is Blumarine performing?

The company is constantly growing. It has an important history behind it, but the rejuvenation operation, which is part of creative director Nicola Brognano’s vision, has paid off. Today the brand winks at Gen Z and Millennials. There is still some work to do, we believe we are on the right track. Overall, we are satisfied by the results, so I am happy with this acquisition.

What are the target markets for the brand?

The main ones are the Us and the Uk, a not-surprisingly kind of bridge between the Americas and Europe where consumers are very receptive to picking up on new trends. Then, Asia and the Middle East are also potentially receptive markets, and close to our message for the future. Meanwhile, the online channel is also performing very well and accounts for about 30% of the total, as well as constituting almost 80% of turnover in the Us.

Speaking of the Us, after the Marc Jacobs’ fashion show there were rumors of an upcoming collaboration with Blumarine. Is that true?

No comment.

To sum up, after your appointment at the helm of Coin, what will be the strategic focus?

Coin is a historical and solid company of almost 115 years, a reference point for Italians. We want to reposition ourselves in the premium segment. The economic results and turnover are extremely positive. We hope to continue in this way.

Do you have any further openings planned?

After opening a store at Loggia del Grano in Florence last december, we have two particularly significant ones on our agenda. In october we are scheduled to open a Coin store in Piazza Cordusio in Milan, while in Verona we will bring our high-end Excelsior format. (all rights reserved)