Magliano’s non-binary couture

«With Kiton, my dream to craft a look entirely by hand became reality». Luca Magliano exudes a blend of emotion and enthusiasm as he engages with the international press at the Nelson Mandela forum in Florence during the 8 a.m. meeting. Adorning the moodboard behind him are Anna Magnani (commemorating the 50th anniversary of her passing this year, ed.), a cover featuring the renowned Italian singer Mina placed on the sculpted physique of a bodybuilder, photographer Tina Modotti in a men’s suit, artist Joseph Beuys wearing a felted paletot, and the iconic staircase scene from the 1983 movie Nostalghia, filmed in Italy by the Russian Andrej Tarkowskij.

«In the movie, on the staircase, the destinies of the characters intertwine. I envisioned a reflection of life for this show, which is also a homage to the fashion emotions I experienced as a child watching Donna Sotto le Stelle, with icons like Naomi Campbell descending from Trinità dei Monti in Rome». The designer, honored with the Karl Lagerfeld prize in the last Lvmh Prize edition, started his journey with a show in Florence five years ago.

«It feels like coming back home to the place that marked the beginning of my brand. And for this, I will always be grateful to Pitti immagine». At 7 p.m., a diverse audience of street personalities and hot names chosen from international buyers and press arrives at the Nelson Mandela Forum, a brutalist concrete building facing the historic Artemio Franchi stadium designed by engineer Pier Luigi Nervi. Passing through diagonally shaped concrete pillars, the audience enters the hall of a sports arena that has hosted concerts and performers for the past ten years. The seating is on metal benches facing a section of the bleachers that has been stripped of its plastic seats. The protagonists of an impactful street casting, in which gender and somatic traits of different ethnicities are fluidly blended on a continuum, begin to parade on a grand staircase.

«Gender is like a landscape, rich in nuances and gradual transitions. At times, gender identities have specific needs..., and today’s fashion has the responsibility to express them» Luca Magliano emphasizes. And his looks make statements. The first look, a tailored greige suit with maxi shoulders and a mandarin collar paired with loose pants, is followed by a coat that appears to be inspired by Islamic galabeyas, complemented by the customary tipu hat. It is often difficult to distinguish between men and women: gender is a choice, part of a non-binary continuum. The custom-made soundtrack by British artist Oxhy creates hypnotic Vertigo music. Five Borsalino hats, the result of a first collaboration, punctuate the looks. The show concludes with one of two outfits created for another unprecedented capsule with Kiton. «After partnering with Edoardo Di Luzio’s Underscore District, my brand has new fuel and is expressing its potential».

Judgement. Luca Magliano continues to follow his own path. A journey without compromises, made of messages that raise awareness about today’s social issues. «I grew up in the workshop. That scent inspires my fashion» he recalled several times. «My classic is an exaggerated femininity» he added, talking about his show in Florence. His imprint calls to mind Demna’s disruptive experiments. For a fashion deeply rooted in social consciousness, where the medium is the message. (All rights reserved)