Made in Milan Armani

«The theme of the collection is inspired by the atriums of Milan’s noble palaces. Atrius that conceal gardens, spaces designed by a discreet geometry of precious and polychrome marble of certain fabrics used to make the clothing», Giorgio Armani, with more wavy hair than usual that makes one think about certain Napoleonic portraits, explained. The designer talked between the two scheduled shows as celebrities arrived.

«Milan is present this season in my collection, a more polite Milan, with a slower pace as I wanted on the runway. However, my inspiration always comes from the people I love and who work with me». Before arriving, the aristocratic Via Borgonuovo, in the heart of Brera, is half-closed to traffic amid mists that evoke the marchesa Casati. «Armani is pure elegance. timeless style. A symbol of Milan», Theo James, star of The white lotus that was just awarded at the 80th Golden globes, told MFF. «Armani last year in Sanremo brought me luck. I hope he wants to dress me this time as well», Gianni Morandi recalled.

The show’s background is a statuesque marble wall. Over a piano ostinato, paying homage to composer Ludovico Einaudi, the show starts with three-piece dresses in boxy silhouettes. «I was craving elegance and material. The volumes are large and there is a lot of research». The pants have darts and very wide volumes. From formal to outdoor and sporty contaminations. Intellectuals with iconic metal goggles act as the entrée. Then it is time for sexy and cozy jumpsuits in velvet satin with blankets now rolled up, now worn as ponchos. Cashmere, alpaca, velvets, and a newly conceived drapery dominate. A reminder of an era made of elegance that, although partly forgotten, remains imprinted in the refined spirit of the Lombard regional capital where Armani became Armani. Evening becomes light, with crisp blue silks with geometric patterns. And then, the new Armani neve line unveiled in St. Moritz appears as well in red and anthracite.

Judgment. In 1990, Martin Scorsese made a documentary about Armani that started from the fitting right inside the noble palace on Via Borgonuovo. It was called made in Milan. That atmosphere lives again in this new rehearsal, but at today’s pace. In the finale, five pairs of boys and girls seem to cross paths at a party, and they come out together happily. «Do we not all yearn for beauty?... I say it without embarrassment, I love beauty», Giorgio Armani concluded. The joy of timeless style. (All rights reserved)