Louis Vuitton’s Spanish drama

An Iberian new wave unfolds, set to a soundtrack blending 80s hits with classical music, creating a sonic collision. Malcolm McLaren’s Madame Butterfly accompanies the Louis Vuitton cruise 2025 collection. The waves come alive in Barcelona’s iconic Park Güell, designed by Antoni Gaudí in 1914 and later declared a Unesco world heritage site.

Mosaics and art nouveau details embrace those architectural silhouettes enhanced by dramatic gestures. Wide-brimmed hats fit for a royal ceremony, eyes concealed behind mirrored, iridescent sunglasses, and lips painted a blood red, like in a painting. «I am like a tourist. I let myself be influenced by the place. Last year it was Italy, now it is Spain», Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director of women’s collections at Louis Vuitton, explained to MFF. «The idea came when Pietro Beccari told me that Louis Vuitton would be a partner of the America’s cup starting in August in Barcelona. I told him: “I know exactly where I dream of holding the show”. The cruise collection is always a travel diary. In my mind, I envisioned Spain’s grandeur, drama, a certain rigor, tradition, and, at the same time, the extravagance and madness of Spanish culture. I found these elements deeply inspiring».

Lace, ruffles, and ruches; tulle and polka dots, with nods to the Spanish infanta. Then, the hedonism of couture hats and enveloping outerwear infused with equestrian elegance, fringes, and sculptural drapes like theater curtains. «There are reflections of Spanish culture elements of Goya and Velázquez, mosaics inspired by Gaudí’s aesthetics, and the colors of Ricardo Bofill, who has long been a source of inspiration to me», the designer explained. The volume increases as the collection progresses, journeying into modernism inspired by the show’s setting. From initial clean lines, it evolves into playful volumes and contrasts with embroidery, bling bling, boleros, and balloon skirts, culminating in pleats that resemble bas-reliefs.

Judgment. «My idea of luxury is the creation itself. It is not about displaying an object, there is no need to showcase the clothes. It is something that should gain value over time, something you become attached to». Nicolas Ghesquière’s aesthetic journey remains true to itself, never betraying its essence. It creates a dimension of fashion that dares to stand out. A suspended dimension difficult, absurd, hypnotic, beautiful. (All rights reserved)