Loewe’s utopia castle

A white cube with the Loewe logo stands out in the courtyard of honor of the 15th-century Château de Vincennes. From Emily Ratajkowski in a floral top to Naomi Campbell in black to actor Jamie Dornan in an oversize pullover, guests and celebrities take advantage of the sunshine for shots surrounded by the architecture before entering the hall.

«Jonathan Anderson is one of today’s greatest talents. His approach is always bordering on art», Dornan tells MFF before the show that takes place inside the building among 21 confetti cubes scattered everywhere by artist Lara Favaretto. The défilé takes a minimal approach, emphasizing line, texture, and the way leather, duchesse silk, satins, velvet, cashmere knit, feathers, and crystals interact with light. The first outfits are oversize dresses with blurred prints reminiscent of Gerhard Richter’s artworks. «Playing with blur is a way to emphasize that fashion, instead of being about the present, focuses on the after. The tension between in and out of focus sets the pace smoothly. Impressions fade as the pixels of the previous season now lose sharpness. An idea of elementary nature, one piece and nothing more, declined into the simplest possible form. A single detail or gesture creates a silhouette: folded arms, a brooch gathering volume, a purse chain holding a drape, folds interlocking halfway, boots collapsing. The Squeeze bag is introduced, made in buttery leather with a squishy handle and donut chain detail. The sound is also an art performance going from a toccata by Francis Poulenc on the harp to You want It darker by Leonard Cohen. The ending applause anticipates the rush to the drivers for the 50-minute drive towards downtown Paris. The castle is however well worth a trip…

Judgment. Less is more. Jonathan Anderson’s journey between art and fashion continues. His conceptual approach is among the most interesting today. His play between «in and out of focus» is inspiring. The feather dresses are original. His Loewe revolution continues. (All rights reserved)