Lapo Elkann aims to protect «Made in Italy»

Lapo Elkann chose MF Fashion to give another exclusive interview almost a year after his previous ones, which were centered around the memory of his grandfather Gianni Agnelli, who passed away twenty years ago. This time, the focus is on Made in Italy, but he prefers to use the phrase «created and crafted in Italy» to highlight the importance of creativity and craftsmanship. He spoke in occasion of his debut as a designer for Ecoalf, a rising Spanish sustainable clothing brand. He openly addressed Italia Independent’s future, which has been uncertain following recent challenges (see MFF of September 13). «Italy boasts top entrepreneurs such as Diego Della Valle, Remo Ruffini, Gildo Zegna, Renzo Rosso, and Dolce&Gabbana», he said. «Italian manufacturing is a treasure that must be preserved and passed down to future generations». When asked if he would support a Made in Italy campaign, he said: «It would be an honor. However, we must ensure that our words are backed by tangible actions».

What does fashion represent for Lapo Elkann, and what is the significance of this project?

Fashion embodies one of Italy’s great expressions of excellence. It brings me huge pleasure to return to my creative passions. Presently I approach it with greater maturity and the ability to decline incongruous projects in order to dedicate my energy to the ones I believe in. The Founder of Ecoalf, Javier Goyeneche, had a captivating vision to embody sustainability, a theme that resonates with me.

Do you draw inspiration from renowned designers in your work?

I hold immense respect for Giorgio Armani, a remarkable individual who played a crucial role in the creation, development and globalization of Italian style. He elevated Italian icons to a global platform, and today, Italy needs him more than ever. One of Armani’s strength lies in his forthright communication with people. With Karl Lagerfeld, I had the pleasure of working although he was challenging to work with. On the other hand, Dolce&Gabbana are excellent collaborators. I find inspiration not just in fashion, but also in the designs of Pininfarina, Zagato, and Bertone. Creative individuals are naturally curious, and this curiosity drives their pursuit of better work, while continuously examining the work of others.

How is the progress of Italia Independent proceeding?

We started the Italia Independent reorganization process several months ago, and as the majority shareholder, I aimed to ensure significant financial resources from the very outset to ensure its successful completion. Following the recent court approval of the agreements with creditors, the brand-buying market identification process has concluded. I am pleased that Modo group won the brand because of their expertise in the field. They will be able to advance it. Italia Independent will always be a brand that I cherish.

Are there more upcoming projects after Ecoalf?

Italy boasts of numerous top entrepreneurs, covering a broad spectrum of sectors beyond fashion and luxury. Currently, I am in talks with other companies from various sectors. I am drawn to the concept of movement, which need not be confined to the automotive industry. Although an initiative is underway, I cannot disclose any further details. When it comes to luxury, two French Groups, Kering and LVMH, produce in Italy instead of France due to the presence of top-quality artisans here.

We have not heard you speak since the 20th anniversary of your grandfather Gianni Agnelli’s passing. Who was the “Avvocato” for you and for Italy?

My grandfather Gianni Agnelli is a role model for me. I remember him as a great grandfather, entrepreneur, and Italian. I believe he was highly creative. For instance, in the 1960s, he created a Ferrari model that McLaren would not take over until the 2000s. He also created the first black sailboat and America’s Cup boats, which later served as tenders. Additionally, my grandfather’s moccasins, created due to a problem about his leg, served as inspiration for Tod’s and Car Shoe, as well as Brooks Brothers button-down shirts. Despite never leaving Italy, he is considered the country’s greatest “foreign minister,” in my opinion.

What does «Made in Italy»  mean to you and how would you define it?

Personally, I prefer the terms “created and conceived/crafted in Italy” as opposed to “Made in Italy” due to the fact that the essence of Italian excellence is not solely found in manufacturing, but also in innovative thinking. My past experience includes working on the Fiat 500, one of the cars that emits the least amount of Co2. Additionally, while working on Ferrari’s tailor-made interiors, I considered incorporating vegan materials. I had the opportunity to meet talented and skilled workers in our supply chain. Despite our highly desirable traits, we tend to speak negatively of ourselves.

Would you participate in a “Made in Italy” campaign, perhaps for Minister of Enterprises and Made in Italy Adolfo Urso?

Certainly, but only if the words are backed up by concrete actions, because Italians excel at doing but often fall short in communicating what we accomplish. I am willing to support my country, but I need concrete actions to do so.

Gianni Agnelli claimed certain garments brought him good luck. Do you share this belief?

Firstly, my grandfather’s pinstripe suit tailored by Domenico Caraceni in Rome, as it fills me with a sense of confidence and safety. Secondly, I own a red suit that symbolizes love to me that I endeavor to wear frequently. I have an additional pinstripe suit that may be overly self-focused since it displays the letters of my name. I think creative individuals tend to display some degree of self-absorption…

Do you envision the opportunity to collaborate as a creative with exceptional Italian entrepreneurs?

Fortunately, I have cultivated positive relationships with each of them. Gildo Zegna has remarkable abilities, having been one of the first to successfully sell in China, while Renzo Rosso has a captivating vision. Diego Della Valle and Remo (Ruffini, ed.) are highly regarded individuals, while Domenico (Dolce, ed.) is one of the hardest-working individuals I have ever encountered. Same goes with Armani. In the past I worked with Gucci and Frida Giannini. I had the opportunity to closely observe Virgil Abloh’s work for his brand and Louis Vuitton. He was an incredibly creative individual who may have demanded too much of himself. I learned from all these greats that supply chain and manufacturing are key assets of Italy. We need to work harder to transfer our legacy of knowledge and expertise, and sustain our leadership in present and future times.

Ecoal, a Spanish sustainable fashion company founded in 2009 by Javier Goyeneche, is aiming for a 60 million euro turnover by 2023. The brand has flagship stores in Berlin, Madrid, Barcelona, Tokyo, Paris, and Milan, where it has a store designed by Patricia Urquiola in Piazza Gae Aulenti. The meeting with Lapo Elkann took place in Madrid, arranged by his wife Joana Lemos Elkann. The two created a formal wear line to promote sustainability without sacrificing style and elegance. The collection conserves 243,000 liters of water and reduces Co2 emissions by 58%. For every dress sold, 10% of the proceeds will be donated to the Laps Foundation to support children’s happiness rights. (All rights reserved)