Isabel Marant returns to Italy

Isabel Marant is returning to Italy for the first time since the Covid-19 pandemic. Italy is an important market for the brand, with three single-brand stores in Milan, Florence, and Rome, along with a well-structured multibrand distribution network.

Italy accounts for approximately 10% of the Brand’s turnover, which is estimated to be around 250 million euros, with 51% of the company controlled by the Montefiore fund.

The occasion is marked by the inauguration of the Bellagio pop-up store, opened a few days ago in collaboration with luxury retailer Tessabit and running until october. The 40-square-meter space features the Riviera collection, which includes two exclusive items: a basket bag and a T-shirt.

«We have been working with Isabel for many years and have long sought a way to further develop this partnership», Andrea Molteni, ceo of Tessabit, told MFF. «In recent years, we have been committed to facilitating projects with commercial and communicative value with our partners to enhance our retail presence on Lake Como, which includes about 150 windows across 20 stores. We have thus created a sort of network that we can customize based on our needs. Specifically, Bellagio sees a huge influx of tourists and an increase in special requests». This includes the double-window display on the lakeside promenade, where international customers can immerse themselves in the designer’s world as she shares her projects with MFF.

You have not been to Italy for a long time, since the inauguration of the Milan store in 2018…

It is true. We have not traveled much lately, there is a lot of work to be done in Paris. Other people travel for us, and I am really jealous of them because when they come back, they tell me about their experiences.

What does Italy represent for you?

Fellini, La Dolce Vita, Italian cinema… When you come here, you feel like you are in a movie. Venice, Florence, and Rome all have that Italian vibe, a unique charm. I believe Italy has remained a very authentic country with a strong heritage.

How did the idea for this opening come about?

We have been working with Tessabit for a long time. They proposed this pop-up store, and we thought it was a great opportunity for brand visibility, perfectly matching the Brand’s spirit, particularly with what we call the Riviera collection, which fits the mood of the location.

In 2024, the Brand turns 30. That is a significant milestone…

Yes, but we do not like to celebrate too much. However, it is magical to still be here.

How has your work evolved? And the fashion industry?

Personally, I have become more focused on what I do, and I have sped up my way of working. Fashion has changed a lot since I started. There was no rush to produce and present collections on social media. Now, there is an industry tied to images that must be constantly fed.

For those working in the industry, a collection feels old after a short time…

That is why we try to stay authentic and true to our Dna. Every six months, for the show, you have to be at the top. For small brands, it is difficult to survive with all these big groups.

But you have a very distinctive image that helps…

We manage to convey a unique energy in the fashion world because we are free; we can maintain our identity without compromises. Our Brand is quite accessible and down-to-earth. I like to consider it a “high-level sporty brand”.

You are also a queen of boho chic. How do you see the return of this trend on the runways?

It has never gone out of fashion; there have always been people who loved it. Sometimes I think it is too easy for us to create this bohemian look, but it is what we love.

Do you prefer designing accessories or clothing?

I really love designing women’s shoes, while I am not at all a “bag person”. Shoes, in my opinion, give a real twist to the look.

Is there any other product category you would like to explore in the future?

The next category I would like to explore is perfumes. We have talked about it, but we are not ready yet. We need a partnership to do this, and there are not many options that convince me.

You mentioned the independence of your brand. How has it been working with Montefiore over these years?

With them, the plan was to expand the brand internationally. I am a self-made woman who created the company alone and managed it for about 20 years. However, we needed someone to take it to the next level. We were very happy because Montefiore respects what we do, no one has ever interfered with design and creativity.

What do you see in the Brand’s future?

The next fashion show, we always live in the future. Moreover, we want to increasingly focus on communication and image.

Isabel Marant ceo Anouck Duranteau-Loeper: «With Montefiore, we have more than doubled our business. Currently, we are not on the market»

«We are not in an open process on the market. We are growing well and have many plans for the future», Anouck Duranteau-Loeper, ceo of Isabel Marant, explained to MFF.

How important is Italy?

It is very important for several reasons. Firstly, because we produce and buy the best fabrics here. Furthermore, it is crucial from a business perspective, both retail and wholesale. We have partners like Tessabit, Luisaviaroma, Rinascente… And we have three stores in Milan, Rome, and Florence that perform well with both local consumers and tourists.

Are you planning any other openings?

We are always looking around, but we are not in a hurry. There will be more summer or winter pop-up stores.

In the ranking of countries by business, where does Italy stand?

The first market is the US, followed by France. Italy and Germany come right after. In Italy, the wholesale network is very robust, making the market large in terms of volume.

What is the turnover?

It is around 250 million euros for 2023, and it should remain around that figure in 2024. This year has been extremely volatile; some markets, such as the US, are performing well, while others, such as Asia, are struggling. It is difficult to forecast.

How many stores do you have?

There are 85 worldwide.

Thanks to Montefiore?

We have more than doubled our business thanks to them, growing from ten to 85 stores. We now have a solid retail foundation to build on for the future.

With Montefiore’s divestment, rumors of a possible return to the market have circulated. How do you respond to them?

A private equity firm, by definition, will seek opportunities at some point. Currently, we are not in an open process because it is not the right time at the macroeconomic level. The performances are good, and they are in no hurry to close a deal.

Are you planning any brand extensions?

We are not looking for anything at the moment. Five years ago, we launched the menswear and bag lines, and boosted retail development. Now we want to focus on consolidation. (All rights reserved)