Gucci surfs the Korean wave

A surfboard is the signature object for Gucci’s cruise 2024, part of a monumental show amid olympic inauguration lights and hypnotic drums. It evokes sportsmen on the river that cuts through the city of Seoul, whose Blade runner-like skyline opens up like an oasis. Protected by a fence reminiscent of the forbidden city, the Gyeongbokgung, Korea’s largest royal palace, is hosting a fashion show for the first time for Kering’s Cruise 2024 fashion house.

There were 570 guests seated to witness a string of nearly 70 co-ed looks. Stars from Dakota Johnson to A$ap rocky, who arrived in Asia to perform at a very private afterparty concert, to Koreans Juyeon and Younghoon of the band The boyz, traverse the monument’s courtyards one after another. The last one, a vast square, welcomes under the wide portico framed by rows of red columns the very long catwalk.

The collection, created by the maison’s creative studio (which is waiting for the upcoming arrival of Sabato De Sarno to work on the collection for the Milan fashion week in September), plays on the concept of hybrid. Garments, accessories and styling are mixed, blending Han river windsurfer wetsuits with suits and skateboard uniform elements, the technical with tailoring. Surfing with iconic logo lettering is precisely one of the statements, as are neoprene wetsuits. The process of hybridization gives rise to a study of deconstruction. Removable sleeves become accessories, while zippers allow pants to expand. The bomber jacket turns into an evening skirt, while the biker jacket stretches and becomes an overcoat. Sculptural lines characterize trapeze dresses and silk bands with bows, inspired by traditional korean dresses. As the surfboard, the skateboard also makes a statement, transforming itself into an almost jewelry accessory, embellishing a series of bags ranging from deformed horse bit chains or in reduced sizes to trapezoidal versions with a rounded silhouette.

The play on the logo, which now fits into a lozenge evoking a historic sporty brand, is very effective. The show is a tribute to Korea, a major shopping destination in which the event was supposed to take place last fall but was then postponed due to the Itaewon tragedy (see MFF of October 31, 2022). The Maison has had a presence in the country for 25 years, having opened its first monobrand store in Seoul in 1998. Since then, they continued to grow. Today, the long-awaited event is finally arrived, in one of the city’s landmarks, the largest of six royal palaces built in Seoul since the 1300s, part of a Unesco heritage site.

Judgment. The show is fast, despite the many outfits. Some bags and the play on logos stand out. The impression is that of a desire for cleanliness with firm street touches and play on logos and silhouettes, with a desire to ride the Hallyu, the Korean cultural wave, influencing all of Asia and beyond with its soft power.

Mega afterparty with A$AP Rocky and Jay Park

A white bracelet gives access to the most anticipated afterparty in all of Seoul. From the tenth floor of a total white building, hosting contemporary art exhibition by day, three floors depart from a Gucci-branded for just a few happy guests. Amid molecular finger food and cocktails that celebrate a mixture of Italy and Korea, the audience dances as they await the performances of two stars. Jay Park, a korean but Us-based rapper is the first, with 2.6 million followers on Instagram, who has received awards for r&b album of the year and artist of the year at the korean hip-hop awards. By the third song, he takes off his shirt and climbs the ladder up to the private room. He is followed by a DJ set, waiting for the highlight: the performance of the very popular A$asp rocky, a rapper with nearly 17 million followers and the partner of another world-renowned star, Rihanna, the bad gal Riri, as she is known on social media. They are expecting their second child. His campaign for Gucci guilty just came out. The audience celebrates it, and the party goes on until the wee hours. (All rights reserved)