Gucci’s sex reaction

The opening piece is a statement of intent. A small, micro metal mesh bra that barely covers what should be veiled with rhinestones GGs. Sex sells, as a famous American marketing motto goes. Then again, one might say at Gucci, in the season of transition between the exit of Alessandro Michele and the now upcoming arrival of Sabato De Sarno, who will debut in September, rediscovers a new-old sensuality. Erotic glamour in Tom Ford’s style, referencing the years when the texan designer was at the helm of the Tuscan fashion house along with financial mastermind Domenico De Sole. Dom & Tom, the true vintage for fashionistas since we are talking about the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Furry coats with a green soul or made of wool like clouds of color take the runway in front of a parterre where François-Henri Pinault and his wife Salma Hayek sit along with Dakota Johnson, Marco Bizzarri, and Måneskin. Exposed stockings under long sheer tube skirts, very 1990s cropped tops, long rhinestone fringes from earrings that start at the lobe and go around the back. Between powerful reinterpretations of the Jackie bag and the famous model with chains and large clamp, from sheepskin to the plexiglass version like a shopping sculpture. They are made for girls with a strong soul who mix hyper femininity with oversize and masculine shapes, pushing themselves into the most extreme androgyny with jeans and tuxedo with generous shapes.

They are fans of PJ Harvey, swinging in her somewhat intimate rock and strong ballads, with a rough edge. They are unveiled by sheer blouses, essential mini horse-bite for belts on mannish pants, embellishments on the teardrop cut outs of dresses, sudden couture forays of dresses swollen with volume, like big hearts. However, a daring slit such as the one Belen Rodriguez used at Sanremo music festival does not hold back the secret, as it reveals an exposed thong. Here’s the dress-veil that leans over an underwear suit to tell the new G-string à la Tom Ford, like that rhinestone G applied to the nape of a model’s neck, reminding then the spring-summer 2003 campaign, with the celebrated shot of the G carved on Carmen Kass’ pubis. Vintage but meant for effect.

Judgment. The entire style office, which steps out together onto that catwalk that evokes a hypothetical headquarters of the Maison, receives a round of applause. The elevators bring all the members of the creative team that made the collection and has been working in these days to keep up the honor of the fashion house in a moment of interregnum. It is not an easy one. However, we are now already looking ahead to the next step with the upcoming arrival of the new creative director from whom much is expected. Challenge accepted. (All rights reserved)