Green luxury takes the stage in Copenhagen

«I see a strong desire in the luxury sector to accelerate sustainable change. There is a commitment from groups and brands in this segment to evolve and reach a turning point. However, there is still a long way to go». With these words, Federica Marchionni, ceo of Global fashion agenda, explained to MFF the green transition the industry is undergoing, on the occasion of the Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024.

The event, organized by the non-profit association, will open its doors tomorrow and run until May 23 at the Concert Hall in the Danish capital. High-end and fashion players, from Kering to Brioni, represented by Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer of Kering, and Mehdi Benabadji, ceo of Brioni, as well as Ralph Lauren and Ganni, will take the stage. Joining them will be VF Corp, Patagonia, H&M Group, OVS, Zalando, Gruppo Florence, and many others. The forum, under the theme «Unlocking the Next Level», will also celebrate its 15th anniversary.

«For the last edition, I was proud to bring Lvmh to the summit. Kering is already a pioneer in this field, and in the past, we have had Gucci and Bottega Veneta. I insisted on having a comprehensive spectrum to understand different approaches and find a common denominator. The goal is to assess which actions need to be urgently implemented in the short term. The products from these groups are durable and high-quality, part of a world that demands specific choices and operational actions. But once they decide to take action, they do so quickly», Federica Marchionni continued.

“Those who have acquired SMEs or have announced plans to do so, like Prada, are certainly ahead in the green transition. Owning the supply chain and investing in smaller production facilities allows for the acceleration of both process and progress. However, the critical point is to ensure this change is genuinely implemented. On the other side, SMEs themselves have a smaller environmental impact but face disadvantages due to their size, struggling to afford sustainability teams, for instance. Ultimately, I believe luxury will increasingly be defined by consumer choices, with buyers seeking assurance of high-quality products and processes that adhere to the highest eco-standards. We must remember that preventing problems is often far less expensive than dealing with their consequences. This must be everyone’s top priority and should unite us all».

The ceo highlighted the three main goals driving Global fashion agenda’s commitment: «From the European Parliament, we expect community policies for the sector, which are essential for each EU state to foster harmony not only at the European level but also on a global scale. This is why Global Fashion Agenda participates in roundtable discussions in Brussels, ensuring the industry’s voice is heard. We also welcome commissioners to our summit and collaborate with the Conference of Parties and the G7. Secondly, we aim to direct capital towards innovators, focusing on development. Innovation, along with circularity, is the key to the future. We need to create more renewable energy and develop new, bio-based fibers. Lastly, we aim to implement projects in various countries, from reducing water consumption to carbon action and closing the wage gap».

Addressing these topics further, on the occasion of its 15th anniversary, which will draw over 1,000 stakeholders, including suppliers, producers, brand managers, politicians, and institutions, GFA has published a special edition of the Fashion ceo Agenda. This edition is designed to guide fashion organizations towards achieving a net positive industry by 2050, outlining five key opportunities.

«The first two goals are to operationalize sustainability and redefine growth. This means that companies generating profit and seeking to evolve, even through public listing, must manage their operations in a sustainable manner. The third goal is to incentivize consumers to prioritize eco-friendly products. Fourthly, our aim is to prioritize people by advocating for the rights of all workers in the supply chain, ensuring no one is left behind. Lastly, a mobilization based on materiality will provide greater transparency about product traceability», Marchionni continued.

«This anniversary is important and comes at a time of reflection and urgency regarding the climate crisis. We were pioneers in this field in 2009, when there was no green agenda; we worked to bring sustainability into everyone’s agenda. Before, our focus was only on raising awareness through talks. Now, we have implemented tangible actions. I have worked to make the summit more global, inviting more manufacturers to strengthen dialogue and support projects we are already implementing in Cambodia, Vietnam, and Bangladesh. We have expanded the innovation forum to connect companies that provide innovative materials and end-of-life solutions», she added. «We will also release data collected from Italian supply chain suppliers as part of the initiative with PwC on the gender pay gap, which will continue in Europe with analyses in other manufacturing countries such as France and Portugal. Additionally, we will welcome a group of students to integrate the next generation into sustainable change», she concluded. (All rights reserved)