Glenn Martens: «Fashion can be art»

«A fashion show in Venice? That would be a great idea. However, in the meantime I can tell you in advance that we will do a show in Tokyo on June 9». These are the words of a smiling Glenn Martens, full of energy and with a touch of witty irony. On a rainy day in Venice, at Studio Cannaregio, he inaugurated «Alltogether», a group exhibition supported by Diesel, unveiling to the public Tom of Finland Foundation’s permanent collection for the first time outside Los Angeles. «Tom would have turned 102 years old next May 8. His message of freedom and inclusion is as alive as ever. For me, it also reflects in a certain type of fashion, like what we do at Diesel».

The 38-year-old Belgian designer («They say Venice is the Bruges —his hometown— of the south,» he joked) is now the wunderkind of the fashion system, after a tour de force that saw a haute couture collection of his own in January for Jean Paul Gaultier, a new show for Y/Project, which he has led since 2013, and a catwalk debut in Milan for Diesel. His looks for that collection have been worn in recent days by stars like Dua Lipa and Rihanna. Virtuosic variations on denim, of which Glenn Martens is an acknowledged master, «made more special and complex by upcycling techniques made possible thanks to Diesel's craftsmanship and attention to sustainability. For me, those upcycled looks are true creative tour de force, close to works of art».

Do you see a link between fashion and art? Can fashion be art?

Fashion is a creative expression. Fashion can be art. There is a market for art just as there is a market for fashion. Couture is the closest form of fashion to art. In the collections for Diesel, garments made by upcycling are a technical and stylish virtuosity. They add sustainability to the picture. In short, there is a close relationship between these different creative expressions. It is a great thing to be able to make these two worlds dialogue.

Your show for Diesel in Milan was set among enormous sculptures. Was that another link between fashion and art?

We started from a strong idea. Diesel has changed history in the way it communicates, especially when we think about the campaigns it started doing in the 90s and 2000s. They were really the first to speak in such an independent and very direct and even a bit brash way. So that form of expression is definitely part of our DNA. I thought that these inflatable dolls (work signed by Berlin-based artist @LiljonAro, ed.) had, of course, a very strong connection with the show.

Did you expect such a positive reaction to the show? With fans such as Dua Lipa and Rihanna...

As you may know, I did three shows in five weeks between January and February (Jean Paul Gaultier, Y/Project and Diesel, ed.). When you work at that pace, you do not have time to reflect too much, because the moment you start reflecting, you start freaking out... I was not expecting this incredible feedback, not just from celebrities such as Dua Lipa and Rihanna. We are all working together on this and I think it was possible because of everyone's commitment.

Now, in Venice and Paris, Diesel is supporting a major exhibition with the Tom of Finland Foundation. According to you, is there a message?

The art of Tom of Finland, who would have turned 102 years old next May 8, is a reminder of freedom. His foundation is actually an incredible example of remembrance, to remind people that the emancipation of the Lgbtq+ community has not been an easy job and that the work is not over yet. The freedom of a so-called minority benefits everyone. With its fearless communication, Diesel is able to bring this message of inclusion to so many people around the world. I think part of what Diesel can do is help spread a message and make sure people do not forget about it, because we know humanity tends to forget. Just look at the war in Ukraine... My grandfather who is 98 years old fought during the World War, in the trenches, for freedom in Europe. However, the war is back...

JW Anderson has a co-lab with Tom of Finland. Will there be a capsule collection with Diesel?

Sure. We have a collaboration with the Tom of Finland Foundation, which we will present during Pride Month (June, ed.).

Venice has been the set of important fashion shows lately. Renzo Rosso loves it. Could Diesel put on a show in Venice for one of his collections again?

Yes, I could think of doing a show in Venice, also because it is a beautiful location. Diesel does not want to define itself as a luxury brand, we like to define ourselves as alternative luxury. In the same way, I think that the classic fashion weeks like those of Milan, Paris and New York are not an obligation for us. We talk to everybody, we are very open to do shows everywhere. In fact, we will be in Tokyo in the summer.

So, there will be a Diesel show in Tokyo? For which collection?

We will do a show in Tokyo on June 9. I am really looking forward to that. I would say it will be mostly a continuation of what we presented in February in Milan.

And when will you be back in Milan?

In September there will be the second chapter of the story that started in February. Milan is a really important city for us.

Is there a creative exchange with strong figures like Jean Paul Gaultier and Renzo Rosso?

With Jean Paul it was easy. He left me carte blanche. At Diesel, I never forget that it is Renzo's creation. We have so much in common: the same work ethic, the sense of duty, even the sense of humour with a hint of cheekiness, and the same rejection of those who waste our time. His Diesel archives are a real treasure trove. The exchange with Renzo is an enrichment. I heard that he was moved during the fashion show...

What do you think is your biggest challenge at Diesel?

Diesel has always tried to connect communication with certain taboo social issues and minorities and has always tried to trigger something in people's minds, to help them understand that the world is not exactly as we have come to know it. So, what we have been doing with Diesel since I arrived is working with sustainability and now we are reaching the point where almost 40% of the collection is based on sustainable products. (All rights reserved)