Givenchy's America

A futuristic cube in the court of the École Militaire, under the gaze of the Eiffel Tower. A square catwalk, invaded by a white mist and filled with immaculate water, illuminated the garments and accompanied the walk of a cool, underground tribe with American traits. Givenchy returned to the catwalk with menswear, debuting on the Parisian agenda with the first homme show since the arrival of Matthew M. Williams as creative director. A crucial step for Lvmh's maison and the Illinois-born designer. «I am happy to give an exclusive stage to men», he explained to MFF backstage, «to be able to tell my overall perspective through a full collection of looks and an aesthetic story that can be more articulated than the shows during which we combined menswear and womenswear (since his arrival in 2020, the designer, founder of the 1017 Alyx 9SM brand, has always unveiled his vision for the label through co-ed runways, ed.)».

The notes of the soundtrack created by Alkaline (dancehall and reggae artist of Jamaican descent, who stands out for his radical look, a friend of Matthew M. Williams himself) rang through the air. On the runway, an ode to summer punctuated by the memories of the designer himself and the community of friends and creatives around him. «I wanted to mix memories and suggestions that accompanied me hanging out with my musician friends under the California sun», he added. «Memories of a tribe filtered through my gaze, fragments of a squad of artists, musicians and designers that I want to become part of the history of the Maison and my narrative for the brand. This collection is about color and overlays. I wanted the models to walk in water to release strength and energy, to tell a powerful contemporaneity».

Featuring a parade of boys wearing different versions of the iconic TK sneakers on their feet, with their faces covered in cagoules screaming Givenchy in big letters. A wardrobe fluctuating between sports, underground and the bling bling decorativism of Harlem and its surroundings. Wearing some deluxe jewelry from the first men's jewelry collection and sporting a swaggering attitude between the past and the future. «Whenever I wear something new, I like to add something old to it, to make it more real», Williams added. «I think that is why I madly love overlays or fabric workings which make them look used: it all helps to give the outfit a purer, more real soul». This is what emerged from the looks as a whole, oscillating between black and white with hints of fluorescent hues, coral, lime, kiwi, mint, purple and indigo. Favoring concrete and denim blue as an ensemble symphony. The ensemble preached in atelier vocabulary in a 4.0 version. The logo dominated, becoming the seal of a tribe screaming its belonging. Tailoring mixed with urbanwear and activewear. Defining the dress code of an alternative gen Z with a street scent. Exploring an idea of camouflage and denim. Evoking and reinterpreting the social uniforms of the America in which Williams was born. Experimenting with the tradition of ancient workmanship and the offbeat avant-garde of the contemporary.

Judgment. The Givenchy-Williams pairing flexed its muscles with a menswear collection that is a candidate to become major in total sales. The collection is easy and snappy, commercially impactful. Featuring pieces that speak to Williams' people, to the Givenchy tribe but also to a new generation of customers ready to rediscover the more street, underground and rebel soul of the French Maison. (All rights reserved)