Gabriela Hearst’s last dance at Chloé

A lively Latin dance featuring dancers and singers energized the catwalk for Chloé’s show along the Seine at Paris Fashion Week. Gabriela Hearst also joined in and greeted her audience with infectious enthusiasm, as this marked her final fashion show for the Richemont group Maison.

The warm atmosphere permeated the fashion, unveiling a floral and romantic theme with an emphasis on sustainability. From flowy, ruffled, drape dresses in pure white and country black to delicate silver fabrics, the collection showcased experimental designs along the arms such as flute sleeves and padded shoulders. The incorporation of subtle ruffles added playful flair to the elegant looks. The hand-sewn detail reappears discreetly in the sunburst pleated design of wide skirts with textured leather. A gradient of color, ranging from classic black and white to rich yellow hues, adorns the circular dresses held together by a single ring.

All eyes were on the first row, looking for Angelina Jolie, who recently signed with the fashion house but was not present. However, the front row had its fair share of surprises. Diego and Andrea Della Valle, along with Andrea’s son Leonardo, were seated on the front row. Insiders were quick to speculate about the possibility of seeing Gabriela Hearst, Chloé’s departing designer, soon taking over at Tod’s, a brand without a Creative director since Walter Chiapponi’s departure. «She is a friend» Diego Della Valle replied, who had previously stated at Tod’s recent fashion show (see MFF of September 23): «We will start considering a replacement for Chiapponi tomorrow, in honor of his work».

Judgment. In her last fashion show, Gabriela Hearst aimed to leave a lasting impression. Her collection features well-balanced silhouettes and outfits, with accessories that complement them perfectly, blending seamlessly into the whole. Yet, what truly stood out was the wild and almost liberating dance in the finale. The Uruguayan-born creative director brought a dance school from Rio de Janeiro, the Mangueira, which is a pioneer in gender equality in samba. Once again, Hearst’s message regarding social attention could not have been more evident. (All rights reserved)