Foreign countries drive Pitti

There are great expectations for Pitti Uomo 104 that is going to be hosted in Florence from June 13 to June 16. The scenario emerged yesterday from the event’s usual presentation conference in Milan sketched a still complicated moment due to the inflationary crisis, but of greater dynamism for companies, the recovery of tourism and markets, with major returns expected such as that of China. According to the latest data by Confindustria for Sistema Moda Italia (smi), the Made-in-Italy menswear sector in 2022 was once again driven by exports, which reached 8.9 billion euros (+24.7%). The performance of both EU, +25.6%, and non-EU regions, at +24%, was favorable, with a higher weight absorbing 54.6% of the total. Switzerland is the first destination (+14%), followed by France (11%), and Germany (10.9%). In fourth place, the Us puts in an important run of 68.6%, while China registers a +8.6%. Hong Kong and Russia remain negative, with sales at -3.6% and -15.5%, respectively.

 «It is a great honor to be here for the first time. I will try to bring all the philosophy of my company to this role,» Antonio De Matteis, Kiton’s owner and new president of Pitti immagine, said. «We know how much the fashion industry has reacted better than others in Italy. Some realities in the sector have reached pre-Covid-19 numbers in 2021, while others in 2022. We forecast a positive 2023, as there is great optimism coming from the many applications. We have in fact about 50 more exhibitors than last year».

825 brands, 41% of which foreign, will present their Spring/Summer 2024 collections. «Pitti is still the only international men’s fashion fair in the world. Thanks to the trade-union with Milan, we are working very hard in the right direction. The brands have shown innovation,» De Matteis continued, highlighting in particular Us and Europe’s evolution, thanks to an important tourism recovery already visible in Italian cities, as well as the Asian side. He was echoed by the Italian trade agency (Ita) president Matteo Zoppas, who also shed light on the performance of fashion in the first part of 2023. «Italy exported about 620 billion euros in 2022 of all categories, 80 billion of which represented by fashion (up 17.7% on 2021). The trend is confirmed by the first two months for textile-clothing exports, up 12.7% to about 11 billion,» he pointed out. «An economy that creates job is a blessing in these times. Costs and inputs did not return to what they used to be, but compared to eight months ago there is hope. Digitalization will also help boost exports». Ita will boost the incoming part with 350 buyers. «We will witness a return of buyers from China for the first time since the end of the pandemic, along with buyers from developing countries such as Vietnam and Indonesia, and also Africa,» Zoppas stated.

Talking about the heart of the event, Fendi will be the most expected special guest, which will present the spring/summer 2024 collection with a fashion show in the late afternoon of June 15 at the Fendi factory, which was recently opened in the heart of the Tuscan countryside, Capannuccia. On the same day, unlike previously announced, guest Designer Eli Russell Linnetz will bring his brand Erl’s Spring/Summer collection under the spotlight, probably at Palazzo Corsini. Supported by the Pitti discovery foundation, Linnetz will make an installation with a cinematic soul in the forecourt of the Fortezza da Basso, and the Chulaap project, the brand founded by designer Chu Suwannapha, will also create an installation inside Sala delle Nazioni.

«The theme of this edition, Pitti Games, sketches a moment of regained optimism, an enlarged playing field where you bet, you gamble, you begin to play,» Agostino Poletto, general manager of Pitti immagine, explained. For the events, Luisa Beccaria’s fashion show at the Frescobaldi Garden on Tuesday, June 13 (see MFF of May 11) will combine fashion and solidarity. On Wednesday evening, Valentino will hold a cocktail party for the opening of its new boutique in Piazza della Signoria, and on the same day, LuisaViaRoma will host the multi-brand fashion show runway icons, which will involve over 50 international brands in Piazzale Michelangelo. Meanwhile, Rinascente Firenze will launch the two-day Be Florentine event, including private dinner experiences and live concerts. Among other highlights, Fila will present the Fila f box collection, a sportswear and outdoor collection designed to celebrate 50 years of the iconic F Box logo. Arena also celebrates its 50th anniversary by raising the curtain on beachwear and its collaboration with The Woolmark Company, as well as for Doucal’s, which will celebrate its 50th anniversary with a special edition of the Mario loafer. Last but not least, S|Style Sustainable Style, an exhibition project of Pitti discovery fundation, will welcome for the first time the partnership with Kering’s material innovation lab (mil) to support ten brands with a responsible approach. (All rights reserved)