Flowy tailoring conquered Paris

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With outstanding debuts, second seasons, and top brand reconfirmations, Paris had a fantastic conclusion to the fashion month dedicated to womenswear spring-summer 2025. According to MFF, what conquered the buyers were the feminine yet empowering glam collections that, just like in Milan, sometimes revived the past or bet on creativity and romanticism. Wonderful locations and settings under the name of Ville lumière grandeur closed the deal.

The best shows include Saint Laurent, Chloé, Valentino, and Miu Miu. Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli, Alexander McQueen, and Rabanne were appreciated too. Among the younger names, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Duran Lantink, Christopher Esber, and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt stood out. In particular, the most anticipated debut, that of Alessandro Michele as creative director of Valentino, was promoted, as well as Chemena Kamali’s second show for Chloé, a collection that last season excited buyers.

«It was an outstanding fashion week. Some first-time collections were lovely, other second-season shows strong, and famous designers’ collections were exceptional and memorable. Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino was marvelous. Schiaparelli’s Future vintage collection was extraordinary, just like the energy of the light and lively show by Chloé. Saint Laurent’s collection was iconic and inspired by Yves», Simon Longland, director of buying fashion in Harrods, explained.

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«Paris made us want to dress up again. We saw great maisons presenting strong collections, new arrivals making their debuts, and the fashion community rally around creative directors presenting their first collections. The second collection by Chemena Kamali for Chloé was beautiful; every piece was romantic, wearable, feminine, and fresh, while the tailoring was impactful and cool. Schiaparelli too hit the mark with its Future vintage collection.The second show of Seán McGirr for Alexander McQueen was positive as well», Jodi Kahn, luxury fashion vice president of Neiman Marcus, said.

«After Milan, Paris is a beautiful community when it comes to trends and energy. Loewe had the most emotional show: the tenth anniversary of Jonathan Anderson was acclaimed with a standing ovation. Saint Laurent had my favorite silhouette: masculine yet with firm feminine sensuality. The first Valentino collection by Alessandro Michele was emotional, dramatic, and weirdly poetic in its looks. Among the youngest, Charlotte Chowdhury with Rescha. For next summer, a mix of masculinity and feminity in the right balance, an intellectual look with glasses as a librarian, shirts, sweaters, short dresses, and derby, as well as transparencies, lace, and lingerie. No high heels, but derbies, boats, ballerinas, and flip-flops», Maud Pupato, Printemps buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories, and footwear, explained.

«A dynamic week, full of energy, creativity, and strength, with exceptional collections and celebratory moments from fashion giants such as Valentino, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Miu Miu, and Chloé. It was exciting to see new chapters for brands such as Dries Van Noten and Valentino, with an extraordinary collection by Michele. Alexander McQueen and Chloé are gaining momentum. A beautiful milestone is the tenth anniversary of Anderson by Loewe, and for Stella McCartney, a wearable collection full of details. Gabriela Hearst’s return has made a difference. Best shows include Saint Laurent and Valentino and, among the youngest, Niccolò Pasqualetti and Duran Lantink. Must have: a Saint Laurent suit, a transparent crinoline dress by Loewe, and ruffles by Valentino», said the Mytheresa womenswear buyers team, under the supervision of Richard Johnson, chief commercial and sustainability officer.

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«Paris in the name of romanticism, with the same sunset color palette as Milan. Delicate lace from Chloé, silk and organza from Dries Van Noten, and maxi chiffon dresses from Saint Laurent have floated on the catwalks. Beautiful feeling of female empowerment transmitted by the tailleurs of Saint Laurent and Gabriela Hearst. Balenciaga’s show is worth mentioning, with the catwalk transformed into a giant dining table. Spectacular Alexander McQueen at the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Among the youngest, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt», Kate Benson, buying director of Net-a-porter, explained.

«A very interesting week full of ideas, with confirmations in terms of shows and trends and good work on accessories. Valentino with the debut of Michele, a nice work of archive, product, and news. A great second try from Chloé, with a very feminine image, boho and perfect for the spring-summer season. Miu Miu was beautiful, a great combination of new proposals between clothing, bags, and shoes. Among the youngest, Niccolò Pasqualetti. The focus is on feminine looks: many floral dresses and chiffons with transparencies and relaxed tailoring with a return to oversize», Giuseppe D’Amato, Rinascente buying and merchandising director, said.

«Paris is always the most intense, full of shows, presentations, and events. This edition seemed a bit undertone, with uncertainty of the market that has weighed a lot, highlighting a lack of clear trends. Among the best shows, Miu Miu with its unforgettable looks. Saint Laurent is worth mentioning, with its clothes with a masculine yet chic design. Chloé continues her journey towards designing a romantic and confident woman. Céline was one of the most intense collections. In the foreground, oversized and color-block windbreaker jackets, light chiffon dresses in solid colors or prints, and overpants in formal fabrics and masculine silhouettes. Handbags, preferably large, taekwondo-inspired sneakers and medium-heeled shoes to wear with thin socks», Marta Gramaccioni, Luisaviaroma buying director, explained.

«A week full of expectations that were not missed. From presentations to parades, everything was very interesting. Best shows include Dior, Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten, Miu Miu, and Valentino. The protagonist is a young woman, feminine and in neutral colors, with a touch of boho chic and a maxi bag», said Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi from Plas consulting, who manages the buying of over 40 multibrand brands in Italy and Europe.

«Paris bets on femininity. Top shows include Saint Laurent, Mugler, Dries Van Noten, Balmain, Rabanne, Loewe, Sacai, and, among the younger ones, Christopher Esber. Many long and mini dresses and transparencies, including lingerie, body, and lace. Second-skin pieces, as well as sexy suits, leather and suede, floral prints, embroidery, and lightweight windbreakers. Beige, camel, and cream colors are the highlights», Denis V. Evstafiev, founder of the Fashionistas concept, explained.

«The fashion week was very attended with many ideas and news. Miu Miu was beautiful and sporty chic. Valentino reinterpreted a woman of other times in a contemporary and classy way. Beautiful men’s suits with oversized trench coats by Saint Laurent. From Loewe you will find sculpture dresses covered in feathers or mother-of-pearl and many flowers. Fresh, young, and with a desire for freedom, Chloé, excellent lingerie dresses and all the floral parts. Among the young, Duran Lantink stood. The best location was Coperni's» Gabriele Pancheri, head of G&b buying, with over 30 stores in Italy and the Balearic, said.

«In the name of spectacularity, among locations of great effect, brands have re-read their past in a modern key. Top shows include Chloé, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, Hermès, and Victoria Beckham, as well as Courrèges and Rabanne. Keep an eye on Christopher Esber. A very feminine and glam woman who loves fluid fabrics, chiffon, transparency, and delicate colors. The glasses are a must, as well as handbags», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Multibrand, concluded. And now it is the market’s turn. (all rights reserved)