Ferrari to start again from Milan

He wants to turbocharge Ferrari fashion as well, after debuting with its first fashion show last year (see MFF of June 15, 2021). «Walking the runaway during Milan fashion week means taking a step forward», creative director Rocco Iannone told exclusively to MFF, for the first preview interview about the co-ed show scheduled for the morning of Sunday, February 27. «With this collection, we will be moving into the usual seasons of the fashion industry», he explained. He also confirmed the continued support he has had from the very first moment from controlling shareholder John Elkann, ceo of Exor, and the Group's ceo Benedetto Vigna. Ferrari's ceo, in fact —on the strength of revenues of 4.3 billions and more than 800 millions in profits (see MF of February 2)— is also dealing ad interim with the new fashion division, while waiting for a new executive to arrive on the rtw project after the exit of manager Nicola Boari (see MFF of December 22, 2021).

«Us, Germany and Japan are performing very well, faster than expected, considering that we still do not have a store in Asia but we only go through our e-commerce and Farfetch and Luisaviaroma». Evidently, they are satisfied at Maranello, given that, according to MFF, the June show had a media impact value (miv) of about 7 million euros, in line with those of top brands in the fashion system. The Milan headquarters currently employ 50 people, while overall brand diversification employs 200 people. It is a project, therefore, in definite acceleration.

What can you tell us about the Milan fashion show?

Ferrari, with its 75 years of history, provides an enormous cultural background from which to draw... If the Maranello show was focused on the mechanical component, with garments that seemed to be made up of elements taken from cars, for Milan I wanted to explore the theme of software, of «light mechanics», together with that of speed and the hybrid. Intangible themes that inspire futuristic narrative concepts and take into consideration the city's link with Futurism.

What does this landing at the Milan fashion week represent, after the debut in Maranello last June? Have you joined the National chamber of Italian fashion (Cnmi)?

We are officially included in the Cnmi calendar, with the fashion show that will take place on February 27. It is a very important step for this project. The fashion show in June was a huge media success, attracting the interest of many multi-brands and buyers, and it made us understand that if we want to be part of the fashion industry we have to adapt to industrial timing, so that collections are planned with precise timing, realization and presentation logics.

What response did you get, in the last months?

Six months after the launch, the numbers allow us to analyse some trends, which are very positive. In the Us we are very strong. In Asia, besides with e-stores, we are present with our online boutique and with Luisaviaroma and Farfetch as well, and we had enthusiastic feedback from Japan and Hong Kong. In Europe, besides Italy, Germany is a country that is standing out, as well as the UK.

How do you see your role as a creative?

I see myself as a kind of curator, who has the task of understanding the values of an immortal brand such as Ferrari and conveying them from a visual point of view, making them interesting to the eyes of today's society.

It was a bet to bring women into Ferrari stores, how did it go?

Women have been a revelation, with really important percentages of customers regarding some capsules, up to 60%. The surprise lies in the fact that the June collection was gender fluid, not structured for women.

What are your best sellers?

Outerwear is an essential element of our story, incorporating a high level of research. We had surprises also from the accessories section, especially belts and gloves, as well as silk, on which I had fun printing archive images taken and re-edited from the historic Ferrari magazines of the 40s and 50s.

Can you tell us about your retail plans?

In the first six months we have been focused on our direct distribution channels, with the flagship stores in Maranello, Milan and Rodeo Drive. At the end of the month, we will be opening stores in Miami and Atlanta, as well as two stores in Rome. Since January, we have been distributing to multi-brand and department stores, with Selfridges having us in four stores and Beymen in Istanbul.

What role does Milan play in the project’s growth?

Milan is a fundamental stage in a story that began in Maranello and looks to the world. (All rights reserved)