Etro's rainbow relay

The atmosphere is that of grand occasions. Under the vaults of a warehouse not far from Linate, a geometry of lozenges draws a colorful set floor, which becomes an optical backdrop for the new chapter of Etro. «There is the past of the origins mixed with a sustainable future,» fashion designer Marco De Vincenzo explained backstage. He is the first exponent outside the founder family (in the front row in full) to design for the maison, which recently entered the orbit of the L Catterton fund, linked to Lvmh. In the front row, there are Silvia Venturini Fendi, Pietro Beccari, ceo of Dior, and Serge Brunschwig, ceo of Fendi (for whom De Vincenzo continues to work on accessories, ed.).

The show is a fine test of balance and shows a firm and rich edit. Flowers, birds and exotic fruits enliven the fabrics like grafts on a runway transformed into psychedelic patterns trodden by towering clogs. Silhouettes range from extra short to super long. Forget the gypsies, of whom only skinny braids remain. Dresses become tapestry, worn with mini earrings. Paisleys are transfigured into a botanical twist, at times Mexican at times almost Tibetan, and are worked like inlays with special artisanal workmanship.

Plissés are as sharp as they are in couture. The miniskirts are worn over oversized shirts, and the brand’s logo appears on polo shirts and dresses. «Accessories are part of my life, and they could not be missed for some bags. There is a first experiment in upcycling,» the designer explained about some models made with fabrics taken from the Maison’s archives alongside modern recycled plastic. There is the brand’s expertise in the multicolor hand-dyed cashmere, denim brocades and degradé stripes on cotton shirts.

To historical research, De Vincenzo preferred long conversations with founder Gimmo Etro and his children Kean and Veronica who, up until last season, designed menswear and womenswear. «Thanks to them I could imagine my vision, less linked to the past and more focused on sensations». It is not surprising that among the guests there was a designer with character such as Alessandro Dell’Acqua. At the end of the show, ceo Fabrizio Cardinali and managing partner and head of Europe for L Catterton Luigi Feola happily hugged De Vincenzo.

Judgement. The Etropia, as they call it in the release, started with the right foot. «I am happy that the collection opens and closes with Etro’s heritage and with a little of myself inside of it,» De Vincenzo humbly stated. The new day for Etro starts with beautiful sunshine. (All rights reserved)