Dries Van Noten: «My future with Puig»

«It is a dream come true». This is how Dries Van Noten talks about his debut in beauty in tandem with parent company Puig. A collection composed of 40 items, including 10 fragrances and 30 lipsticks, as well as a series of accompanying pieces destined to expand in the very short term with new items and colours. It represents one of the most significant projects among those resulting from the alliance with the Spanish beauty giant of about 2 billion dollars in revenues, which took over the Antwerp designer’s brand in 2018. The Group that «gave us broad shoulders, allowing us to face Coronavirus with more serenity,» Van Noten explained, has in fact also supported the fashion house in retail development with the opening of an 800-square-meter store in Los Angeles, designed to host events, artwork and an archive of garments for sale. It is a new formula that will be replicated elsewhere, where «the conditions of the spaces will allow it,» Dries Van Noten continued, talking about the future of his brand in this interview with MFF.

How long have you been planning your debut in beauty?

Right after Puig joined in June 2018, we started working on the fragrance. It took a very long time to put this very complex project together, between making the fragrances and dressing them with special bottles. The same happened for the lipsticks, which had to be produced in the most sustainable way possible.

What does this debut represent for you?

It is a dream come true. Making a perfume is something extraordinary. I see a lot of women wearing my clothes but now knowing that they are also wearing one of my fragrances is amazing. About 10 years ago, in 2013, I collaborated with Frédéric Malle who created an olfactory portrait of me. Today bringing my line to life has been challenging but a unique experience.

As for the make-up line, why did you start with lipsticks?

One of the most beautiful feminine gestures is putting lipstick on. There is nothing more magical than seeing the confidence a woman gains when she paints her lips. Plus, the lipsticks tell of my joy in working with colour. I am really happy with the results of these products, which hold up beautifully.

How will the collection evolve in the coming months?

In the summer we will launch 2 glows in clear bottles and 5 new more extreme lipstick colours.

You developed this project during the pandemic. How did Covid-19 change the way you work?

It has been a complex few years because I love talking and collaborating with a team of people, sitting at a table together and sharing the energy that this confrontation generates. Zoom is not the same thing. The positive aspect of the pandemic perhaps has been that of allowing us to slow down and think more about what is important and what is not, both in fashion and in life. What values are, basically. For me, that has been extremely helpful.

Do you miss physical fashion shows? When will you be back on the catwalk?

We are still evaluating how the situation will evolve and if people will be able to travel. When you do a fashion show you need people looking at the collection. The fashion show is a moment of sharing emotions. You still cannot travel from China, you can do it from the US now, but then who knows. I am not going to do a fashion show for 5 cameramen... I would rather sign more creative projects, in which emotions can be brought to life in different forms. A filmed fake fashion show is not the same. Therefore, I called in people like Viviane Sassen or Casper Sejersen to send a real message.

How is business going?

It was difficult due to Covid-19, but we managed to perform well. The company worked continuing to do everything it could to ensure a healthy business and the customers were very loyal. It was important to have a close relationship with customers, people wanted to keep buying the collection. The collaboration with designer Christian Lacroix (the last pre-pandemic show, ed.), for example, was one of my highlights and then everything was stuck in the stores. However, customers wanted those pieces and the ones that were not delivered were stored in our archive rooms in Los Angeles and Shanghai. These projects are having great success.

How is the innovative formula of the Los Angeles store going? Do you have any other similar openings planned?

We are working on it. We wanted to see people's reactions and I must say they have been enthusiastic. The customers love the concept and we are also starting some projects related to food and beverage that have not yet been launched due to Covid-19. We are closing an exhibition with artist Raquid Shaw. The formula is working well and we are looking for another city in the world with a building where we can recreate a similar situation. Every city deserves its own concept and vision.

Maybe in Italy?

I love this country, but we will see...

What can you draw from your collaboration with Puig?

It was very interesting. They give me freedom in what I do. Even the productions of perfumes and lipsticks have not been entrusted to another team, just putting my name on them... They allow us to be backed. If I had not had their support during Covid-19, everything would have been very difficult. I am very happy.

What about projects in the pipeline?

We do many things. Even small ones. I am working on the garden of Rubens' house in Antwerp. I have my own very much appreciated rose garden and I was invited to participate in the contest to redesign the garden of a painter who is a true icon here. I am not only working on fashion, but also on my other great passions. (All rights reserved)