Dries Van Noten and the style theorem

The set is a construction site. A building partially demolished. A neutral background for the rich and quick paced 2023 spring/summer show of Dries Van Noten. A true style theorem researched by the Belgian designer, who unlike any others is able to combine colors and patterns in a kaleidoscope ranging from minimalism to baroque. «I wanted a three-step story. A path from darkness to light,» the designer explained, whose brand is part of Puig group. A runway that starts with synthesized percussion beats, as in the 1980s American serial music by Steve Reich, and blossoms into a remix of Heart of glass by Blondie.

The first simple rhythmic beats are mirrored in the clothes. A symphony of total black releases, from Flemish old masters, played masterfully between volumes, pleats, and thoughtful bulges. Now in mini dresses, now in tailored jackets. «The reference is the painting Black square by Kazimir Malevich,» the designer explained. It all starts to thicken with a few plexiglas or blown glass accessories. Gold touches and jewel-heeled shoes. As in a symphony, the first movement of black tints flows into floral hues with progressive appearance of sophisticated knitwear. The looks leading to the grand finale see the explosion of flower prints, with a happy ending in which all the models cross over to the set as an explosion of life and energy.

Judgment. Starting with the first look, a black dress that is almost sculptural, the elements of Dries Van Noten's style are vital and fresh. A show of more than 60 looks flies by like a breeze. And leaves one to reflection. (All rights reserved)