Donatella Versace: «Our Avedon»

«Every campaign we shot together marked me in some way. Gianni and I loved working with Richard Avedon». Donatella Versace talked lovingly and with admiration about someone who, according to her own words, was a master of photography, a man who «has always interpreted the soul of the brand as well as Gianni’s imaginary and aesthetics». This happened during the inauguration of the Richard Avedon: Relationship exhibition, which will open to the public tomorrow at Palazzo Reale in Milan and will stay open until January 29, 2023, thanks to the support of Versace, the Municipality and the publisher Skira Editore.

The exhibition will consist of 100 fashion photos and iconic portraits by the American artist who passed away in 2004, coming from the collection of Center for creative photography, alongside original prints of Versace campaigns from the 1990s with top models such as Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington and Shalom Harlow, to whom an ad hoc section with a strong emotional value is dedicated. This is what Donatella Versace told MFF in the following interview.

What did you feel in seeing these photos which are part of both your Maison and your life?

It is always emotional to see Richard Avedon’s photos. They are a genuine work of art and full of memories. Being on set for Versace campaigns with him was always an exciting experience which made me even more invested in this kind of art.

How did Avedon contribute to create the Versace imaginary and how has Versace enriched itself through his shots?

For Versace, communication and campaigns always had a key role. Richard always managed to interpret the brand’s soul as well as Gianni’s imaginary and aesthetics. Since 1980, when we started working with Avedon, there was always an extraordinary alchemy and Richard was a master who managed to embrace Versace’s avant-guard style. His photos are timelessly beautiful. In 2017, at the end of the spring-summer 2018 womenswear fashion show, we dressed the top models with metal mesh clothes and the inspiration came right from Avedon’s work for the fall-winter 1994 collection.

Do you have a special memory for one of these shots?

Every campaign we shot together marked me in some way. Gianni and I loved working with Avedon. We loved individuating the history of the campaign together and then watching him and the extraordinary models bring it to life. With or without clothes. The term “iconic” is often abused, but his photos truly are iconic.

How would you describe Richard Avedon?

He was a master, a very great photographer. I learned what the expression "group shot" means from him. No one before him had ever done this kind of photography. During one of the campaigns, we had twelve models on the set, an incredible cast: Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Kristen McMenamy, Christy Turlington. They were all on the set barefoot in the sand in these incredible outfits, and Richard Avedon was taking care of all the details, from the hair to the make-up to the wind that had to blow. It was incredible. (all rights reserved)

What was it like to be on set with him?

Absolutely thrilling. When you watched him work you understood his genius, how much his strength could draw you into this wonderful world of photography. A sensitive artist, able to capture the spirit of Versace. 

Who chose the clothes to photograph during the shoots?

I was surrounded by two very strong personalities, my brother Gianni and Richard Avedon. Gianni was attentive to everything related to the clothes while Richard took care of both the photos and the clothes as he was extremely fascinated by the world of fashion and loved it deeply. 

What was it like to be photographed by him?

Richard photographed me for the Blonde fragrance campaign. When I asked him, "What do you want me to think or do on set? Do you want me to listen to music?" he said, "Just think about being blonde, bring out your 'blonde girl' energy and think about being even blonder, blonder, blonder". It was all so exciting. You knew his goal was to create something extraordinary. I could not resist… I was so curious and could not wait to see the pictures! 

What is today's relationship between great fashion photography and the digital world?

I think the two worlds have integrated very well. Today great photography is seen through the digital world and always arouses great interest. When we post our campaigns, images, backstage content on social media, the interest of our followers is very high. I believe that today there is no longer any form of art that does not go through the digital world. Digital belongs to our daily life.

Who do you think are the great fashion photographers?

Those with whom Versace has collaborated… Avedon, Bruce Weber, Steven Meisel, Steven Klein, Peter Lindbergh, Mert and Marcus, with whom we shot the last fall-winter 2022/23 campaign.

This exhibition is a tribute to Milan. How do you think the city has changed? What would you still like it to change?

In recent times, Milan has seen a strong evolution, especially after Expo 2015. It has become the most cosmopolitan Italian city with a constantly growing tourism. You can feel a beautiful and vibrant energy.

Are you happy to be back on the runway with menswear as well?

Yes, absolutely. Walking with the men's collection is part of Versace's dna.

What should we expect from the women's show? Will there be any special guests?

You should expect a very strong collection, very Versace, also dedicated to Gen Z. Celebrities and special guests are never lacking at Versace, but it will be a surprise... (All rights reserved)