Donatella Versace: «I bring Oscar glamour to LA»

Hollywood. The new concept of luxury. The winning Oscars-Versace union. The memories with the super models. The work done by Gianni Versace to enhance women. The strength and fragility of celebrities. Digital and the new frontiers of fashion. Talking to Donatella Versace about Los Angeles is like opening the door to a cabinet of wonders of powerful images, to tell about that choice to come here to present the fall-winter 2023 collection with a powerful co-ed show on the rooftop of the Pacific design center. «Los Angeles is like a natural home, we share the same Dna of energy, power, creativity and imagination», Donatella Versace herself began telling MFF. On the mood-board photos from 1995 appear, a more tailoring appeal, Prince and Steven Meisel’s photos.

In fact, the one-day early show, due to bad weather, did not stop the Medusa brand, who bewitched the city of angels and took center stage in these days leading up to the presentation of the famous golden statuettes. First, a visit to the Los Angeles Lgtb center to celebrate the launch of a scholarship dedicated to fashion students and supported by the Versace Foundation and Cfda. Then the exhibition in Beverly Hills to tell the story of Versace’s connection with the world of celebrities, bringing to the stage some of the most iconic dresses from the Versace atelier, which, over the years, have graced international red carpets. «There is a need for real glamour, the inconspicuous kind, the kind that is not just made of sequins and glitter. Streetstyle is giving way to a new concept of luxury», Donatella Versace explained in an interview with MFF.

Why did you choose Los Angeles?

I wanted to get out of fashion week a little bit. Not because I do not like it, but to have a different inspiration. I have always liked this city, it has a nice atmosphere, there is a mood that is not at all hectic. And just in the days before the Oscars because the Oscars-Versace union has been going on for so many years. Now all brands dress celebrities, before there was almost only Versace (laughs).

What do the Oscars and glamour represent to you?

Versace has always been a brand for strong women, who are not afraid to expose themselves and be glamorous. Women who believe in themselves. In addition, the Oscars are the exaltation of glamour, and this really inspires me. Actresses have exactly this confidence that I look for, because to act in another person’s shoes you have to be very good.

Not surprisingly, for the campaigns you also choose actresses…

Yes, like Lily Aldridge, but also singers like Dua Lipa...

Why do the stars love Versace so much?

Because Versace has always exalted the woman’s body. I myself have always created strong, confident, beautiful women. Even transformed in a certain way.

Do you feel like a Versace woman?

I am Versace (laughs). However, I have a lot of insecurities too. I do not show them, but I have so many. After so many years of work, I wonder if a dress will be good enough, if I will make it. It is a big change this for us, not to have a show in Milan. Usually, we follow the National chamber for italian fashion – Cnmi calendar because I care about Italian fashion and I want it to be strong, but this year I wanted to change.

Will you come back to Milan?

Yes, definitely. Fashion will always belong to Milan.

How difficult is it to be Donatella Versace?

Very difficult (laughs). I would like not to be recognized, people ask me for a selfie and I am ashamed, in the end I am a shy person. It is difficult to be the artistic director of a company with this history. You cannot go wrong, you have to understand young people and the ferment around, both intellectual and digital. Especially the digital one has been a revolution.

In a good way or is it too much?

It has to be accepted. It is a new reality that we you have to get used to. I like everything that is evolution. I was not born in the digital age, but I understand that this is today’s world.

How is fashion changing instead? You have experienced some wonderful times…

I have lived through some incredible unrepeatable times. The world has changes, but the emotions… how wonderful. And the fear, with Gianni being more and more unsure than me and me giving him strength, but it is not like I really had it. I was just pretending. When I think about those moments, I do not want to be nostalgic. Italian and international fashion was born then, those who knew how to make fashion in the 1990s are still here.

And how has it changed today? There is a lot of image, Instagram, and marketing…

What I have insisted on now is tailoring, but not in an old style, rather as a technique to try new things. I still have my atelier in my office, I love the women working there, and this show is very much about that. What I like about this collection is that there is perfection in the fitting and in the form.

Where did the inspiration come from?

I started from us. Not from me, but from a collection of 1995. The inspiration is sartorial, with simple lines that play with the woman’s body, the woman Gianni had made. Everyone looks at the archives, even ours, I did it too and I am almost ashamed (laughs). A modern tailoring with geometric shapes that are inspired by modern art more than past art. We always start from this, but then we look around, we listen to music, we see modern art or a new movie. The man is more sartorial and less streetwear too, I want more the taste of dressing.

The women of those years were more women…

Absolutely, just see how they were looking at themselves in the mirror. Some are still there, but they do not have the courage to say «No, this does not fit me». Therefore, there were some interesting moments. Gianni would decide the outfits for the models, then he would go up to the house and they would all come back. Naomi (Campbell), Linda (Evangelista), Christy (Turlington)… «No, I want this, I want that», they would say. I would change them all, and then Gianni would say «Was not that dress on her?» And I would say, «No, you are wrong» (laughs).

The collection is wonderful...

I am happy with both menswear and womenswear. I like this tailoring, the return of quality, and the study of shapes. With this rush to make collections you do not even have the time to experiment with certain things. By moving the show by almost a month, we had more time to work. It is not a moving forward for me, it is more as moving backward (laughs). I think it is very important, because anything that you rush from one season to next is not good. You kill fashion in this way.

On the other hand, streetwear is kind of over. You won Sanremo with Marco Mengoni, and Elodie was on the stage too...

I dressed Elodie for the finale, while I asked Marco to come here to Los Angeles. They are all incredible. Dua Lipa too. On the runway I mostly want models, though.

Where will the fashion world go from here?

In my opinion, fashion has to go back to quality while moving forward as well. Quality and tailoring are again the basis of everything. There was streetwear, which I also did. You match garments and go, «wow». However, then it ends up being more styling than fashion. Today you have to go back to clothes and accessories as a base. Among all, we worked on the Greek goddess bag, which always comes from the archives. It is called that because women are goddesses, in my opinion. If I had to encapsulate this season and my future work for the maison in one concept, I would say the essence of luxury.

What do you think about what is happening on the creative level? Alessandro Michele left Gucci…

I feel bad for Alessandro. He is a friend of mine and we often talk on the phone. He is a great gentleman.

Is everyone buzzing about the return of Phoebe Philo?

She has always been good. Besides, it is nice that there are other women. (all rights reserved)