Dior shows off its stylish witches at the Paris fashion week

A highlighted line eradicates gender-based stereotyping and biases towards women, specifically those associated with the «witch» image that has been used to label independent and unconventional women since the Middle Ages. Not Her, a work by Elena Bellantoni, transforms Dior’s fashion show venue into an immersive experience featuring projected commercial slogans and images depicting the artist’s own interpretation of the campaigns. This partnership was selected by Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri to complement the show’s storyline for this season.

«Witches were historically independent women, and I invite breaking stereotypes firmly rooted within us», the Lvmh fashion house designer explained backstage as she advocates feminism and reinterprets Monsieur Dior’s codes through negatively connoted cultural imagery. «The Founder’s heritage has been significantly influenced over time. His collections were captured by US photographers who portrayed the Parisian woman as frivolous and unrelated to reality, a far cry from his vision of femininity and the women in his circle», Chiuri added.

Before an exhibition at the Musée des Beaux arts to celebrate the fragrance J’adore, we saw Parisian witch models with cropped hair and piercing looks, wearing black or gold choker necklaces and walking down the runway in front of actor Jenna Ortega, also known as Wednesday, Twilight actor Robert Pattinson, Blackpink’s star Jisoo, and actor Charlize Theron, who is the face of the fragrance. The clothing features torn knit dresses or dresses with artistic burn marks, white shirts with layered sleeves, outerwear with a stone washed appearance in shades of white, and pleated capes and aprons adorned with prints of flowers taken from fields to produce mystical elixirs. Prints are a prominent feature of the season, showcasing moon phases, enchanted suns, medicinal herbs, and a reinterpretation of the Eiffel Tower based on a photograph by Brigitte Niedermair, who is behind many Dior by Chiuri campaigns. Asymmetrical shoulders lend a hint of sensuality, evoking the silhouette of monsieur Dior and the casualness of a slipped shirt. Medieval references appear through the silver mesh netting and column dresses of the finale, as a modern-day Joan of Arc makes her entrance wearing a hybrid pair of fringed grosgrain shoes that combine the elements of court and gladiators shoes.

Judgement. Maria Grazia Chiuri stays true to her ongoing exploration of femininity in today’s world, portraying her musings through a collection with a total wardrobe, meticulously crafted with equal consideration for both ready-to-wear and accessories. A particular fondness of the Lvmh designer.

Chiuri’s modern Joan of Arc

Why did you choose to portray a witch?

It embodies a stereotypical portrayal of women as free and independent, and so I wanted to challenge this notion through Elena Bellantoni’s work and transform a certain Dior perspective.

Why did you choose to challenge existing clichés on Dior style?

I have consistently rejected reducing aesthetics to merely the Bar Jacket. So I developed stone-washed fabrics for jackets that also provide unconventional silhouettes.

What were the main components?

I used an artwork from Brigitte Niedermair for the first time. She has been shooting many campaigns of mine. She photographed the Eiffel Tower and produced stunning prints that added a unique touch to my designs. Additionally, the asymmetrical necklines that leave one shoulder bare were a sensual element inspired by Monsieur Dior, which I included in various clothing options including knitwear, cotton, and wool dresses, to convey a renewed sense of sensuality.

There are also allusions to the Middle Ages…

Yes, particularly in the chainmail-like robes and black lace column dresses that end the show. Joan of Arc’s evolution from saint to witch came to mind, an aspect that has consistently fascinated me. (all rights reserved)