Dior, Kim Jones and Yves Saint Laurent

«There is a theme of regeneration in this collection and in the house of Dior itself. This month marks indeed the 65th anniversary of mr. Saint Laurent’s debut at the brand, and this is the first time we have approached his collections from Dior for our menswear», Kim Jones, the creative mind behind Dior’s signature menswear collection, explained to MFF. Kim builds the show like a theatrical performance, with just two people whose faces are projected on the mega-screens on either side of the runway. The intense looks, voices, and words are those of Robert Pattinson and Gwendoline Christie, reciting lines from T. S. Eliot’s The waste land accentuating the art and drama side of the show, while models looking teeny-tiny in front of their giant mouths uttering a poem in a monologue in two voices as the collection moves between the soul of Dior and the innovations of monsieur Yves.

«There is an influence in the new lightness of the silhouette, especially in the tailoring», Kim Jones continued, «there is a sense of change in the clothes themselves, which can often be worn in different ways depending on the wearer. The metaphor and motif of water flows throughout the collection and is expressed from the most obvious form, through shoes and utilitarian outerwear». As the designer explained, the flow of water is an idea of regeneration. Kim has with two rivers in mind, the Thames of his London and that Seine of his maison that flows a few steps away from the building on the Place de la Concorde.

Fans are buzzing with excitement for the arrival of the celebrities, especially the K-pop singers from Bts, J-Hope and Jimin, who has just become an ambassador for the Lvmh’s brand. The swarm of photographers, tv reporters, and cell phones following them disappears after the first looks. lines are softened, pants become fluid, long fabric belts dangle on the floor. The jackets have double sleeves, covering the arms tightened by drawstrings, as sartorial sophistication gets mixed with a sport-active spirit. Invisible tank tops, generously shaped shorts, outerwear with a doubled bottom with a cocoon effect. Blouses and sweaters are open at the sides like capes, and embroideries draw 3D ton sur ton inflorescences. However, here are glamour-saver garments with spotted inserts in a trench coat and super-functional vests with padding like a life jacket. Between waxed effects and sea-wolf hats, lapels turned up and fastened with brocades for an ever-sought-after touch.

Judgement. The collection has a new lightness in volumes, a more delicate sophistication, and a vein of great intensity, thanks as well to a mise-en-scène with a strong theatrical power that becomes totalizing. Despite the ultra-technological appearance, the warmth of the acting of the two actors draws you to into the performance. Suddenly, you feel like reading Eliot. (all rights reserved)