Dior, Jones' celebration of 75 year of the New look

The voice of Monsieur Christian Dior breaks the silence of the large marquee built in the Place de la Concorde. And a creative conversation begins between the founder of the maison Dior, who yesterday would have been 117 years old, and Kim Jones, creative soul of the men's collection of the Lvmh brand. Under the watchful eye of the golden angels of Pont Alexander III, reconstructed for the occasion, the 75th anniversary of the new look launched by Monsieur Dior on February 12, 1947 with a fashion show that has become legendary. And that iconic Parisian bridge, where the designer loved to walk and became the setting for several shots entered the collective imagination, becomes the catwalk of the fall-winter 2022/23 collection where the boys dressed by the British designer walk. Bringing on stage a tribute to the roots of the maison of avenue Montaigne, a tribute that smells of delicate romanticism.

«This season I wanted to dive into the archives, into the purity of the beginnings of the brand, into its original spirit», explained the English designer who dedicated the show to André Leon Talley, who passed away in recent days. «We turned our gaze to the first creations and focused on the architecture using these elements and transforming them almost instinctively into garments of the modern male wardrobe, respecting that joie de vivre that has always been at the heart of Christian Dior's creations». It's no coincidence that the collection's been titled «La Conversation». Or rather, an imaginary and surreal dialogue between the French couture spirit of Dior and the brit tailoring soul of Jones.

From the marriage of the two opposites comes the new version of the Bar jacket, which explores a more rigorous and essential construction. While the sartorial architecture of the man experiments with feminine proportions and details, with inflated sleeves, bowed closures, small train and knotted buttoning. Spotlight also on the collaboration of the season. The Dior by Birkenstock sandals created in tandem with the German group Birkenstock recently entered the eyes of L Catterton. Which are shown off under formal suits or worn with the new flower bags, one of the great passions of the French couturier. And it is precisely his passions, his symbols, his obsessions and his cornerstones that punctuate the entire show. In a delicate homage with no trace of nostalgia. There are stars and roses, the cannage that has become one of the symbols of the brand, leopard and lilies of the valley, the brocade fabrics of the haute couture ateliers, the discreet houndstooth and severe grisailles, precious taffeta and toile de jouy, macaques and sparkling embroidery. Like those sparkling cascades that decorate lace-ups or dye on the silhouette. To give a thrill of frivolity to all ensembles.

Judgment. «With naturalness and sincerity, revolutions are often made without having had the intention». This phrase by Christian Dior seems to perfectly describe the new collection by Kim Jones, who pays homage to the founder without nostalgia but above all continuing in his work of contamination between genres. With a gentle menswear, delicately romantic, sometimes couture, son of a clear and determined vision. The one that Jones, on the platform at the end of the show together with the hatter Stephen Jones who has been working with the maison for 25 years, has been telling since the beginning of his adventure at Dior. (confidential reproduction)