Clare Waight Keller’s comeback with Uniqlo

Uniqlo presents UNIQLO : C. As Clare, the latest women’s line created by Clare Waight Keller for the Japanese brand under Fast retailing, a group with a 13.6 billion euros turnover in the 9 months ending May 31st, 2023, marking an increase of 21.4%. The collection was launched at a press event in Paris. Effortless clothing and accessories, including the quintessential trench coat, bomber jacket, velvet pants, braided sweater, combat boots, and moccasin, come together to create a timeless wardrobe that combines the creative Brit aesthetic of the designer, who has been absent for three years following the end of her collaboration with Givenchy, and the brand that pioneered the concept of lifewear. «I wanted to return to my London roots, specifically the east side where I spent a lot of time observing the lively community, to create something timeless» the designer explained to MFF, who has been working on the long-term project for 18 months while traveling between London and Tokyo. The first drop is scheduled to release worldwide on september 15th.

Did you lose interest in fashion over the years?

During Covid-19, I took a break from it to gain a fresh perspective. I conducted research and explored new creative avenues. Since I was away from London for most of that time, collaborating with small businesses and contemplating my next step seemed like the right choice. Yukihiro Katsuta, head of R&d at Uniqlo and Senior executive officer of Fast retailing, contacted me and proposed a special project that I have been working on for the past 18 months.

You have worked for several fashion brands. What knowledge did you acquire from each of them?

A variety of skills. During the start of my career, I worked at Ralph Laurent’s style office (for the Purple Label, ed.), where I gained expertise in tailoring and developed a strong inclination towards fabric choices. While collaborating with Tom Ford at Gucci, I mastered the study of silhouettes, styling techniques, and image refinement. Once I became the Creative director, I gained insight into the significance of heritage at Pringle, the importance of femininity and effortlessness at Chloé, and the art of couture and know-how at Givenchy. These experiences have helped me develop a comprehensive understanding of the fashion industry.

Did working for a brand with a massive audience alter your perspective?

Definitely. I currently design for a broader range of body types, while also considering various temperatures around the world. This is why I experimented with layering, laces, and volumes. Although a «dramatic statement» is required on the runway, the clothes displayed can be impractical in everyday life. For this collection, I aimed to create functional and wearable pieces.

How did you adopt the idea of sustainability, which is crucial in fast fashion?

Uniqlo has embraced the concept of lifewear, creating authentic, timeless pieces that are not necessarily tied to the current trends, aligning with my philosophy. While working for fashion brands, the focus was more on creating statements, but my work already reflected this vision. Now, I have condensed everything into a capsule collection.

Have you started working on the 2024 collections yet?

I have already completed my second collection. While the first one focused on iconic pieces, this time I had the chance to explore new ideas and innovative fabrics.

You designed Meghan Markle’s wedding dress. What pieces from the collection do you think would appeal to her?

Knowing her preference for trench coats, a garment she has worn frequently, it is clear that she values effortless style.

What do you admire about her fashion sense?

She exudes fantastic energy and knowledge of style, and is comfortable with who she is.

How do you anticipate the future of fashion?

It is challenging to forecast, but we must prioritize sustainability and combine it with visually appealing design that is cost-effective.

It is challenging for young designers to pursue a career in fashion nowadays?

Undoubtedly. Huge fashion brands dominate the industry, making the market saturated, but I believe it is possible to persevere by staying focused on your objectives, pursuing your individual ideas, and cultivating a distinct creative identity.

Have you ever considered starting your own brand?

It is an idea that I have entertained, but currently, my main focus is on this project. Of course, I cannot completely rule it out for the future.

You previously worked in Italy for several years. Do you miss it?

Italy is an excellent location for production. I do miss it due to my many friends there. Perhaps we will pursue opportunities there in the future.

Yukihiro Katsuta, from Uniqlo: «Italy is now a strategic market for our brand».

Uniqlo has established a pool of designers who regularly contribute, including Jonathan Anderson, Christophe Lemaire, and Clare Waight Keller. The Fast retailing brand aims to expand its consumer base by partnering with multifaceted creatives. This successful strategy will be replicated in womenswear with UNIQLO : C. Yukihiro Katsuta, Head of R&D at Uniqlo and Senior Executive Officer of Fast Retailing, discussed this philosophy with MFF in an interview.

What did you notice about Clare Waight Keller?

The women’s collections lacked sensibility. To address this, I began searching and found Clare. Her experience in fashion houses with different specializations, such as knitwear and tailoring, along with her exceptional taste, convinced us to collaborate and elevate our womenswear line.

What benefits do designer collaborations bring to Uniqlo?

Firstly, we can reach a wider consumer base and offer fresh ideas beyond our core collection. Additionally, collaborating with Clare has provided valuable insights on generating and executing creative projects for the entire team.

What are your expectations for this launch?

Our goal is to reach individuals who are not yet familiar with the brand or have not previously purchased our collections. Through this project, we aim to introduce Uniqlo to these individuals, just as we successfully did with Uniqlo U, designed by Christophe Lemaire, and +J, created in partnership with Jil Sander.

Will this be a long-term collaboration?

I prefer the idea of creating a new brand rather than using the term “collaboration”.

What are the brand’s plans for Italy?

Currently, we cannot provide any specific details, but Italy is certainly a crucial market for us. It is important that we locate the ideal spots to offer our customers the optimal shopping experience. (All rights reserved)