Chanel’s homage to Italy

«Do I have a special dress? Yes, I do, and I keep it in a special place. It is what I was wearing when Karl (Lagerfeld) and Virginie (Viard) asked me to become a Chanel ambassador». This is what Penélope Cruz revealed to a group of students like it was a secret movie script. These words offer images, unveil mysteries and ignite the myth with a vision that matches the arrival in Florence of the double C Maison, which made Stazione Leopolda breathe a little Parisian air for one day. For it was in the former train station of the first half of the 19th century that Chanel presented its Métiers d'Art 2021/22 collection, staged a few months ago in the Ville Lumière at 19M, the new 25,500-square-meter space where 600 people are currently at work among Lesage's lace, Atelier Montex's embroidery, Lemarié's feathering and Massaro's footwear just to name a few. This collection was launched yesterday in Italian stores and will be launched today for the rest of the world.

A long black ribbon welcomed guests to the first room, where three videos made by Remembers Studio played. The ribbon led into the runway setting, a white space with walls covered in pleated curtains and camellia. Chanel's emblematic flower, traditionally created by Maison Lemarié, appeared here in an oversize version, a nod to the dreamlike world of the videos. An ode to know-how, also recalling the Maison’s bond with Italy. Indeed, since the acquisition of the Italian shoe manufacturer Roveda in 1999, Chanel has linked up with eight other companies specializing in footwear, leather goods, tannery and textiles, all of which are key partners in the creation of its collections.

Taking the center stage was a summary of codes that were loved by the many customers attending the show, easily recognizable as paying homage to the fashion house covered in CC from head to toe, like the same cardigans seen on the catwalk. Yet, in the spotlight embroidery, rich plumage, floral decorations, opulent bijoux, Byzantine citations and tweed appeared in a chase of the fashion house's iconic garments and symbols, such as the two-tone Mary Jane accompanying the models' steps on a minimalist runway. «It is a metropolitan and sophisticated collection», Virginie Viard, the creative mind behind the rue Cambon fashion house, explained, who was cheered by applause at the end of the fashion show but remained in Paris to follow the new haute couture collection now close to its debut. The haute couture spirit also hovered in the Tuscan city, with the look shifting to touches of baby pink taking over tweeds embellished with lettering evoking the name of Coco Chanel. And then purple slipping into the electric blue of knitwear worn all over, while 3D flowers bloomed on bold silhouettes and Chanel wording became an iconic belt.

A show attended by around 1,500 guests in addition to the ones who arrived after the runway show. In the morning, some 240 students had been invited to the Florence Chamber of Commerce to attend a masterclass by Bruno Pavlovsky, Fashion President at Chanel, accompanied by star-ambassador Penélope Cruz, who spoke at the microphone and then was one of the guests at the show, who included, among others, Caroline de Maigret, Angèle, Sofia Coppola, director and friend of the Maison, as well as Italian actresses Coco Rebecca Edogamhe, Linda Caridi, Fotini Peluso, Alma Noce and Caterina De Angelis, DJs Peggy Gou, Wladimir Schall and Amandine de la Richardière, the group Le Feste Antonacci and choreographer Dimitri Chamblas. After a few hours, it was announced that Chanel had signed a partnership with Politecnico di Milano, in line with the sustainable transformation of the fashion house's activities which started several years ago (see MFF of June 8).

Judgment. «We can say that Chanel is half-Italian», Bruno Pavlovsky stated while telling the adventure of the double C in Florence. A tribute once again confirming the happy liaison between creativity and Italian craftsmanship’s savoir-faire. (All rights reserved)