Chanel's future

«Chanel is half Italian». Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion at the Maison, loves to emphasize this concept. While the brand's DNA is in the heart of Place Vendôme in Paris, Italy is the place that contributes most to its success. This is demonstrated by the investment in nine local production partners, the intention to further consolidate the manufacturing network by supporting the supply chain, and also by the choice to walk the runaway in Florence with a replica of the Métiers d'Art collection and by the agreement with the Polytechnic University of Milan.

Projects representing the present and future of Chanel, which has recently released figures showing a healthy 2021 budget with revenues of 15.6 billion dollars, increasing by 50% on 2020. The Maison is ready to strengthen its commitment to sustainability and to accept the new challenges of the metaverse and blockchain only when they can be developed in its own way, meaning in the name of excellence. As Pavlovsky himself explained in this interview with MFF at the Florence show.

This is a special time in which everyone wants to walk the runaway around the world again...

It seems so. In November we were lucky enough to go to Dubai to present the cruise. Then we were happy to walk the runway in Florence, it was the first time we did something here, it was so nice. It is a restart.

What does Italy represent to you?

Chanel is half Italian. A good part of our production is here, and our two largest storage warehouses are one in France and one in Italy, near Milan. This is to be alongside our supply chain. We divide the risk between Italy and France, so when France is in lockdown, we hope to be able to work in Italy and vice versa. Both countries are important, although in a different way. Craftsmanship is not the same everywhere. France is more façonnier, Italy has more experience in knitwear. For example, in your country the production of footwear and small leather goods is increasingly growing, we have several partners, and this contributed to the decision to present Métiers d'Art here.

You have nine partner companies in Italy, is that right?

Yes, but we also have other production agreements. We owe a lot not only to the companies we have acquired but also to all the suppliers who work with us, directly or not. The number of people in Italy working for Chanel is high and we like to consider them all as partners.

There is a rumor spreading in Florence according to which you are close to acquiring Leo France. How would you comment on that?

It is one of our historic partners in Italy. We do not want to talk about shopping, we just want to continue to strengthen this relationship in the future.

This is also a way to protect them, sometimes small businesses need the help of big groups...

This is part of our business. If there is something wrong, we are always there. I would like to remind that when Covid-19 broke out, we behaved in the same way with both our workers in France and those in Italy. And I think this is the attitude that a partner with strong shoulders should have. That is to support the people you work with, to be sure that they can continue their work in the future.

What do you see in Chanel's future?

Always being number one. Continuing this development, creating an emotional link with people, bringing the dream to life and, of course, supporting Virginie (Viard, Creative Director of the fashion house, ed.) in the best way so that she can continue to design and take us on her path. We hope to represent the best of luxury and, in parallel, to be the most sustainable. However, it is a long journey. Our job is to convince our partners that we must move quickly in this direction, we have no choice. In parallel we want to ensure everyone's happiness, our customers, our employees, our partners. So, we have to motivate them and make sure they are fully happy today.

How are customers changing? Are they really more focused on sustainability?

I think they are changing, step by step. First of all, they are paying attention to the quality of the product. Customers are becoming more demanding in general and, in particular, with Chanel. I expect they will increasingly demand proof that a material, for example, is sustainable. Preparing for this challenge will be complex but it is very interesting to be part of this change. We also need to prepare all our employees and suppliers to use these tools and make sure they make the right choices.

You have recently signed an agreement with the Polytechnic University of Milan...

It is fascinating, we started working with universities a few years ago. We are sure that the future is built there, starting with students.

Because they look at things with different eyes...

Exactly. With a different perspective. You do not need to teach them sustainability. They demand it. And the question is always how we can get it, not whether we should get it. The heart of this project is to engage the best students and have our employees learn from them.

Working with the Polytechnic University is always a tribute to Italy...

In France we have agreements with more than forty schools of all kinds. In Italy with about six/seven. We work with them depending on the experiences they offer on specific projects. It is important that Chanel is connected with the younger generation.

You are having great success. You have grown by 50% on 2020, and the beginning of 2022 is going even better. What is the secret behind this progression?

A very solid strategy, based on creativity, on having a storytelling impact on the consumer. Virginie is very talented and her work is appreciated by our clients, including the younger generation.

Why?

She is a woman who designs for women, she wants to make them happy. She wants Chanel to be at the top, and that makes all the difference. However, there are so many initiatives around her that allow us to be strong and that contributes to our success now.

When you look at a brand like Chanel sometimes you do not realize all the work that goes into being so big...

It is never easy, but we are lucky, we have an amazing team. People are happy to be here, to contribute. You can be very demanding but happy, and people feel that. Even the new generations we interface with must understand that Chanel is demanding but it is a different company compared to others.

What are your thoughts on blockchain?

It is a very good technology. The principle is very interesting. However, we are trying to develop all these projects in our own way, without rushing, to make the right choices. We have started implementing blockchain by working on material traceability.

Do you believe in the metaverse?

The point is not to believe in it or not. The metaverse is here and we must find ways to work with it in the best possible way. According to me, we still have to investigate the ethical aspect of all this Web 3.0, only then we can probably have some good experiences. We are learning. There are so many young geniuses in the world working on this. How Chanel will use new technologies is another story. (All rights reserved)