Cavalli aiming to reach 85 millions

«We finally want to return to a positive ebitda and 85 million in sales (+35-40%)». Ambition is not lacking to general manager Ennio Fontana, backed by rising sales and capital from the Emirati Damac properties, as the Roberto Cavalli renaissance continues apace. «In 11 months, we completed a turnaround that normally takes 4-5 years», creative consultant Fausto Puglisi told MFF less than a year after his «collezione zero» for the maison (see MFF of February 23, 2021). He also anticipated entering the Metaverse, first with the interior design project Mansion and then with a sneaker, also in Nfts. And the run continues especially in the US, the maison’s first market, where new openings are planned in Miami, Las Vegas and New York. Precisely in New York, Puglisi received the Fgi award from actress and singer Zendaya (see MFF of August 14, 2021). «From Sanremo to the Oscars, celebrities bombard us with requests. But I am happy that even Gen Z stars such as Maluma, Zendaya or Lil Nas X love us».

How do you see the future of Roberto Cavalli?

In just 11 months we made a leap that a brand normally makes in 4-5 years. A year ago, we still did not know what Puglisi's Cavalli would look like and, during that time, we got important work done. We achieved an exceptional performance earlier than expected, we had to hire new people for the style, distribution and marketing departments.

What is the top market for you?

Americans are the main customers. I also received the Fgi New York award in the fall, an award that has also been given to icons such as Donatella Versace, Riccardo Tisci, Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta.

Are there any new openings coming up?

We are opening a store in Miami in Bal Harbour and the next step will be Las Vegas, then New York. The 1,200 sqm flagship store in Milan is currently under renovation, where there will be a pre-styling phase followed by a closing phase. It is definitely a priority and is scheduled to open in 2023.

Will you be launching new product categories? Sneakers or Nfts?

We are working on a sneaker that will be sensational and we want to develop it in the Metaverse. There will be an Nft and we will take Cavalli to a dimension that the brand has never explored. The jewellery segment is doing very well and now accessories have also reached very good sales volumes. All segments are growing.

Are there any placement projects in TV shows?

In America, there is constant work and demand for TV series. For example, Zendaya with Euphoria was the most loved dress of the year. I have a very strong connection with her and I dressed her in Fausto Puglisi for the 2015 Met Gala, on the advice of Anna Wintour.

How will the women’s collection be presented?

The show will be physical, unlike the men’s who was presented with a video. However, the menswear collection is doing very well. Cavalli is an established brand that seduces 40/50-year-olds, while I was interested in engaging the younger generation, like Maluma or Lil Nas X who wore Cavalli garments a month ago.

Have you thought about events outside of Italy?

I am interested in talking about a product that will reach the best department stores, the best outlets such as Selfridges and Neiman Marcus. I am interested in developing a coherent plan with these realities and building it step by step.

And what about furniture and real estate, given the arrival of the Cavalli towers in Dubai?

Next Monday we will launch Mansion, an imaginary journey between Bel Air, Milan, Brooklyn and Miami. It is already a Metaverse experience where I represent the imaginary Cavalli living through a game where you can buy physical products. It is a Cavalli world that is also an anticipation of the towers in Dubai (see MFF of 21 September), another project that is evolving at its best. (All rights reserved)

Ennio Fontana: «Towards 85 million (+35%) with positive ebitda in 2022»

Cavalli’s general manager explained to MFF the prospects and assets of the brand for 2022

How did the first year with Puglisi go in terms of sales? What do you expect for 2022?

We achieved +35% in 2020. I expect that we will overcome 85 million this year and break even, which means another +35-40%. That would mean a positive ebitda after many years.

How many stores are there at international level?

We have 30 stores, both direct stores and outlets, and we are opening new franchises in Monte Carlo and Vienna. Then Asia.

What is the first target market?

The US, where we expect to open 2-3 other stores soon. I have been to New York where we want to open 1-2 stores, Los Angeles and Las Vegas. In the US, we should have 5-6 direct stores and 2-3 outlets in addition to omnichannel and department stores.

What is the trend in other geographical areas?

Italy accounts for 20%. In terms of end consumers, the States have the best performance in b2c. On the other hand, Italy is important in terms of wholesale, as well as the Middle East.

And what about Russia, historical target market for the brand?

We are planning to resume development in Russia starting from local partners, such as Mercury, and we are thinking of managing the stores directly. The US’ market must have department stores and direct boutiques, while in Russia e-commerce is increasingly important and it is essential to manage it internally so that all countries with their own customs detain the goods to limit costs. The only way to do this is to have omnichannel and connected outlets. (All rights reserved)