Buyers reward the restart of Milan

Milan closes the men's fashion week dedicated to menswear for autumn-winter 2022-2023 in the best possible way, after taking the baton from Pitti immagine uomo. Despite the growing difficulties created by the Omicron variant and some shows cancelled or converted to digital format, re-proposing the traditional formula of the two events was positive. The buyers interviewed by MFF, in Italy mainly Europeans and a few Americans, almost no Easterners, first and foremost promote the efforts made by Cnmi-Camera nazionale della moda italiana and Pitti immagine to return to an almost normal situation.

In Milan, the live shows of Prada, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana, Etro, Dsquared2, as well as the digital shows of Zegna and Tod's held the spotlight. The spotlight will also be on Kiton, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli and Santoni. Among the novelties on the calendar, consensus for Federico Cina and 1017 Alyx 9sm. While the long-awaited debut of JW Anderson on the Milanese catwalks, transformed into a video, did not convince everyone.

On the trends front, buyers rewarded the continuous evolution of tailoring, especially in the more comfortable interpretation, often combined with casual garments, and the riot of color, which always conveys optimism. In the forefront are tailored coats, overlapping jackets, lots of knitwear and wider pants. On the subject of orders, all the buyers who said so, confirm increasing purchases, even double digits.

«We will increase budgets for menswear, of which Made in Italy is always a fundamental part», said Michael Kliger, ceo of Mytheresa. «Given this season's exciting performance, budgets will be up double digits», said Riccardo Tortato, head of buying department at Tsum-Mercury group in Moscow.

«In Milan, Zegna, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton and Santoni stood out, as well as Dolce&Gabbana and Dsquared2, whose live shows made us relive the excitement of the fashion week in presence. At Pitti, with a better atmosphere and participation than I thought, I would point out Stefano Ricci and Marco Pescarolo», explained Tortato. «Given the commitment of so many to try to live with this situation, I'm sorry both for the absence of a few brands and digital presentations and that certain colleagues didn't come», Tortato added.

«Sartorial tradition and innovation: in Milan an essential wardrobe dominated under the banner of freedom and a return to a young and light classicism», said Beppe Angiolini of Sugar in Arezzo. «All the designers tried to reach and conquer the young market between male and female. Life and fashion as Alessandro Sartori of Zegna explained. Prada, Dsquared2, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, JW Anderson: each with their own meaning. After the strong effort of Pitti, a special thanks goes to Cnmi for the great work between physical and virtual», continued Angiolini.

«Too bad for the lack of some important shows and the last minute change in digital of others. That said, I particularly appreciated Fendi, Zegna, Prada, Etro, Dolce&Gabbana, JW Anderson, Dsquared2 and Msgm. Among the new items on the calendar were Federico Cina and 1017 Alyx 9sm», explained Federica Montelli, Rinascente's head of fashion in Italy. «I would define business casual as the most important trend, which is a tailoring element combined with a casual look. Lots of knitwear over with inlays and patterns, the pants are super fluid, the coat with new interpretations, the shirt is back and the accessories are outdoor inspired, with trekking shoes, lots of scarves and headphones», Montelli added.

«Positive Milan, despite some shows being cancelled: Zegna was our favorite digital presentation, as well as Prada and Fendi the best physical shows. Outerwear was the star, from exaggerated shoulders to overcoats, from bomber jackets to shearling coats. The oversize bags and colors, especially natural and earthy. Pitti is always a great start to the season, a great window for the more sartorial and new formal brands», said the menswear buying team at Mytheresa, led by Chris Kyvetos.

«Of impact were the Dolce&Gabbana and Prada shows, which sought to create a connection with the worlds of music and cinema, respectively. Special attention was paid to the Etro and K-Way shows: contemporary and in line with what the market is asking for today in terms of colors, volumes and materials. Brioni and Tod's presentations were beautiful», explained Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrand brands in Italy and Europe. «We see positive growth both online and offline and on average our clients will increase their budgets, even by double digits», they added.

«My top collections: Fendi, with fantastic coats and colors, Zegna super chic and Prada for new everyday tailoring. Excellent also Etro, with a triumph of colors, Tod's, contemporary and elegant and, among the youngest, Federico Cina», said Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying of G&B, negozio, adding: «I'm happy with what I saw, especially the shows in attendance, fantastic Prada also the location and the important actors on the catwalk. A look for next winter? Turtleneck, soft pants and Prada style overlapping jacket. On the feet boots».

For Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Italian multibrands: «After Pitti, which reacted positively and creatively to the historic moment, Milan continued with the same commitment. Fine Etro, Zegna, Fendi, as well as Prada and Dolce&Gabbana. Among the young people, Federico Cina. The leitmotif was relaxed tailoring, lots of colorful knitwear and graphics, softer pants with darts and drawstrings, constructed footwear with important soles. And lots of strong colors, such as orange and bright green». Now the spotlight turns to Paris. (all rights reserved)