Buyers promote Paris

More than ever under the banner of parisian grandeur, the fashion month dedicated to menswear for spring-summer 2024 comes to a positive conclusion. Buyers interviewed by MFF promote the transalpine fashion week full of fashion shows, presentations, and events, with high-impact locations and celebrities from around the world. The week got off to a great start with Louis Vuitton’s spectacular show to celebrate the debut of new creative director Pharrell Williams. Best collections were Dior, Loewe, and Amiri. Positive reviews as well for Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Givenchy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Sacai. Lemaire, KidSuper, Hed Mayner, and Blumarble were among the younger standouts.

«Paris was truly the city of the show with historic maisons presenting amazing, epic-scale productions and wonderful, masterfully designed, and marketed collections that will appeal to our luxury customers. We always find generous creativity here, we saw some very inventive proposals and an overall elevation of menswear: chic, dressed-up elegance» Bruce Pask, senior men’s fashion director of Bergdorf goodman and Neiman marcus, said, whose favorite shows were Dior, Dries Van Noten, Amiri, Louis Vuitton, and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.

«The attention to the interplay of proportions and exaggerated shapes continued, with wider-cut pants and shorts, high waists, extended shoulders on tailoring and outerwear, and elongated sleeves. The soft jacket and loose pants are ubiquitous. Summer tweeds, in various colored and textured fabrications, were a nice surprise. The palette of chalky pastels was pleasing and fresh. The leather strappy sandals were fantastic, especially when worn with flowing tailoring,»Pask added. «My top shows were Dries Van Noten for the product and Louis Vuitton for the grand debut. We are seeing a natural evolution of menswear toward clothing of high expressiveness and elegance. More constructed silhouettes from Rick Owens and Loewe, softer ones instead from Amiri and Dries. Investment items included boat shoes, polo shirts, wide-leg pants, and shorts with pleats» Laura Larbalestier, fashion director at Harvey Nichols group, explained.

«From Wales Bonner to Dior, as well as the exciting debuts, there was a new energy in Paris and it was great to see everyone out and about enjoying the shows. The Dior show, at the École Militaire, for Kim Jones’ fifth anniversary, was unforgettable. Another highlight was Pharrell Williams’ debut at Vuitton. Loewe, Amiri, and Rick Owens were also worth mentioning. Quiet luxury remains the main trend, with technical details for a sportswear touch. Must haves include Dior’s perfect summer tailoring and Loewe’s khaki utilitarian interpretation», Thom Scherdel, buying manager men’s rtw & non-apparel at Browns, said.

«Pharrell opened the fashion week with Louis Vuitton and gave the general tone of a showtime. Entertainment, also thanks to Parisian monuments, was the highlight, confirmed by the many glittering pieces on the runways and the many parties. Many temporary shops with limited edition popped up everywhere, confirming the city’s strong energy and how fashion uses entertainment to increase sales rather than product content», Federica Montelli, head of fashion at the Rinascente, explained. «Dior, Loewe, Ami Pris, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, and also the spectacular Vuitton were the best shows. When it comes to buying, we will focus on special tailoring, denim, and accessories, doubling as a genderless investment. We will favor essentials and sober fashion. That is what people want now», Montelli continued.

»A Paris full of great shows and collections with very beautiful locations, from bridges to gardens to universities. The proposals of Lemaire, Auralee, and Dries Van Noten were surprising. Amiri and Loewe were highlights. sacai was also beautiful. Doublet and Hed Mayner stood out among the youngest designers. Tailored shorts with matching jackets are the new suiting trend. Many floral prints. Crystal embellishments everywhere on jackets, jeans, and knits. Shorts are a must-have, colorful knitwear and relaxed-fit denim»,  Mytheresa buyers team, led by Chris Kyvetos, said. «A week full of runway, presentation, and super fashionable events. Rick Owens was an artistic spectacle and an avant-garde ecstatic. A strong set design told the story of Dior and the five years of Kim Jones. Loewe reinterpreted the men’s wardrobe with new shapes and proportions. Worth noticing are Courrèges, Watanabe, Amiri, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin»,  Sugar’s Beppe Angiolini explained.

«Paris always holds so many inspirations and, despite the economic period, remains positive in terms of presentation. Dior. Loewe, and Amiri were among the best shows, including KidSuper, which is no longer just a fashion show, rather an event. Sartorial shorts and the shiny decorations with sequins were the key items»,  Andrea Burbi, buyer & brand collaboration at Luisaviaroma, said. «Dior was fantastic, both as a collection and for the set design. Loewe was stunning with its silhouettes and high-waisted trousers. Dries Van Noten was excellent as always. Kidsuper and Lemaire are also worth mentioning. Paris continues the new tailoring seen in Milan, but revisited in the French style»,  Gabriele Pancheri, Head of buying at g&b negozio explained.

«Paris reconfirms its grandeur with a calendar full of fashion shows and celebrities coming from all over the world. Dior, Hermès, Givenchy, and Sacai had the top collections. Lgn Louis Gabriel Nouchi and Blumarble, as well as the new rock-inspired Victory Gate jeans, were the best among young designers», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for multibrands, stated. «Lots of chic and colorful runways. My favorites were Loewe, Dior, Givenchy, and Louis Van Noten, while I appreciated Hed Mayner and Blumarbe among the younger ones. Louis Vuitton had the best location. Key items include wide trousers with very high waists, sleeveless tops, jackets and tweeds jackets, mini shorts, long trench coats, raincoats, and bomber jackets. The chunky Dior loafer and the Hermès Hac bag. Beautiful dusty pastel colors such as green, pink, grey, beige, and sand», Denis V. Evstafiev, founder of fashionistas concept, commented. Now the word goes to the market. (All rights reserved)