Buyers praised Milan’s live comeback

The Spring Summer 2023 edition of Milano Moda Uomo was a success, the first one of the new normal, with 70, almost all physical, events, after a positive edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo. Buyers surveyed by MFF praised the live comeback, the energy of the collections and the full agenda organized by the National chamber of italian fashion (Cnmi). In addition to Italian, European, American and Middle Eastern buyers, this time there were also Koreans and Japanese, while the Chinese were still absent. The top shows were Prada, Fendi, Versace, Dolce&Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Zegna in its Oasis in Trivero. Etro, Emporio Armani, Dsquared2, JW Anderson's live debut in town, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton and Brioni were applauded as well. Gucci's comeback to Milan was also welcomed, with the HA HA HA collection in collaboration with Brit singer Harry Styles. Among the younger brands Magliano, Dhruv Kapoor, JordanLuca and Our Legacy emerged.

At Pitti Uomo, however, Grace Wales Bonner’s show was in the spotlight. Emerging for the coming season is the relaxed tailoring revisited in a summer style with still many shorts, denim's return, strong and natural colors, sandals, cowboy boots or loafers on the feet. As for finance, online orders are particularly increasing, although the uncertainty due to the international political-economic scenario remains. «It was nice to return to Milan and attend incredibly inspiring shows and presentations. Italian brands and companies showed great originality and creativity, highlighting their craftsmanship and the quality of Made in Italy. The overall focus is on relaxed elegance with a marvelous, light tailoring and refined luxury sportswear», Bruce Pask, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus stated. According to him, the best shows were Fendi and Zegna, as for presentations Kiton and Brioni, as well as Massimo Alba and Altea. «There were good mood and great participation at Pitti Uomo as well. Brunello Cucinelli was stunning and a reference as always, Grace Wales Bonner’s show was a real highlight», Pask added.

«There was a great energy in Milan, as well as at Pitti Uomo, on the wave of Design Week. The enthusiasm toward the collections fueled a general atmosphere of optimism, despite the ongoing conflict», Federica Montelli, head of fashion at rinascente, explained. «It is difficult to choose: Prada was disruptive, Fendi was amazing, JW Anderson was directional, Dolce&Gabbana re-edition was beautiful, Versace was stunning. Again, Emporio and Giorgio Armani, Dsquared2, MSGM, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Magliano and JordanLuca were excellent. Zegna closed the fashion week at its best», Montelli continued.

«It is wonderful to be live again and reconnect in person with friends and brand partners, for a summer that promises to be full of vitality» Dean Cook, head of menswear buying at London-based Browns Fashion, stated. «Besides big brands like Versace and Fendi, I liked JW Anderson, with its mix of art and fashion, and Brioni's relaxed tailoring, enhancing its luxury craftsmanship», Cook concluded. 

«A great collection for Prada, made up of smart, highly curated pieces mixed with extreme skill. Fendi represented a story of freedom and travel, where sartorial elegance is mixed with 70s quotes. JW Anderson, an almost theatrical, ironic show, like an art form of fashion. Etro, a poetic message for a young contemporary man, and Dolce&Gabbana re-edition, a journey from the past made current by strong energy», Beppe Angiolini of Sugar explained in Arezzo.

«An excellent fashion week, with an agenda that ranged from Maisons like Prada, Fendi and Etro to emerging talents like Dhruv Kapoor. It was nice of some designers to choose Milan, such as 1017 Alyx 9sm and JW Anderson. The quality of the collections was very good, as well as the events» Raphael Deray, Buyer Rtw Men Luxury & Designers at Printemps, stated. «A great season for Milan. Top shows for us were Versace, Zegna, Prada, Giorgio Armani and Dolce&Gabbana. On the presentation front: Tod's, Brunello Cucinelli and Our Legacy», Mytheresa's menswear buying team, led by Chris Kyvetos, commented. «Complete looks from head to toe took center stage. Each piece had its own importance, including bags, jewelry and accessories in general. Lots of full denim. And tailoring, which is already a key trend for winter, will continue into summer», he added. «Great to be at fashion week, nice atmosphere, nice designs, nice people», Feras Al Yasin, at the helm of Ever Fashion Luxury Group in Qatar, stated citing Dolce&Gabbana and Gucci. «A beautiful Milan, with lots of creative ideas. Prada was super cool, Zegna was definitely chic, Gucci's collab with Harry Styles was beautiful, Fendi was gorgeous and consistent, a really good resort mood for Etro, Neil Barrett was also very good», Gabriele Pancheri, Head of Buying at G&B Shop, stated.

«Key pieces for me are orange, denim, Vichy fabric, soft jackets, Bermuda shorts made of Prada leather —which are going to be a bestselling item— and, on the feet, cowboy boots or sandals», Pancheri added. «The recovery was seen and felt in Milan thanks to all the live shows and events in general. Top collections were Prada and Fendi, as well as Federico Cina, JordanLuca, 44 Label Group and Bonsai», Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas Consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrands in Italy and Europe, commented. «Our clients will increase budgets overall by about 20%. Market demand continues to be there both offline and online, with a still exponential growth», they explained.

«Milan returns to prominence in the presence of men's fashion shows. A traveling man who chooses to wear a relaxed jacket paired with Bermuda shorts, a T-shirt or a printed silk shirt. Lots of denim and lots of linen. Top shows for me were Emporio and Giorgio Armani, Zegna, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana and Etro», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, Buying Consultant for Italian multibrands, concluded. Now it is up to Paris. (All rights reserved)