Burke: «Vuitton and the Milan Renaissance»

Ten years of Objets Nomades celebrated with an exhibition at Garage Traversi during Milan Design Week. A retail concept tailored to the city right inside the rationalist building, which from September will host a temporary store of 1,300 square meters on three floors, two for sales and one dedicated to exhibitions.

The restyling of Via Montenapoleone 2, a location where Italy's first LV café could be based, and a project to renovate the peninsula's main boutiques: Louis Vuitton is betting on Italy, a key market for LVMH’s Maison, which until June 12 will present the creations of fourteen designers, from the Campana Brothers to Marcel Wanders, from Atelier Oï to Frank Chou just to name a few, in the exhibition dedicated to Objets Nomades.

All this ahead of the men's fashion show in Paris, which next June 23 will see a collection signed by the design studio on the runway at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, following the passing of Virgil Abloh, a creative who knew how to «influence and not control» the fashion world, as Michael Burke, Chairman and CEO of the fashion house, pointed out in this exclusive interview with MFF, paving the way for the «new era of Louis Vuitton».

Are you happy to return to Milan for Design Week?

I am excited about it.

You will display an exhibition in the new Garage Traversi location...

It is my favorite building in Milan.

Really? Why?

It is authentic. It dates back to the early 20th century, the 1920s, when everything was seen in a positive way. It represents hope, the future, design and clean lines. I like to say that the 21st century has actually begun today, just as the 20th century began in 1918.

What do you see in the future?

Mainly blue skies with a few hurricanes.

Garage Traversi will open specifically for the event, but then what?

The space will innovatively incorporate a unique pop-up store full of surprises. It will be a bespoke project, a unique architectural and design message specifically designed for the city.

Will it mix fashion, design and architecture?

Yes, and site-specific design projects.

Can you take stock of Objets Nomades’ ten years of history?

In the beginning it was a pure design exercise, with no obligations or goals. Then it has become an integral part of the Louis Vuitton experience. It has found its audience, who was already keen on the brand but not accustomed to these products. People think we created them to capture new consumers, which is true, but satisfying existing consumers who did not have everything they were looking for was even more important. There really are no limits to what people want from Vuitton. They come to us to be surprised. The difficulty is having the freedom to do whatever we want. That can be dangerous. So, we take that freedom responsibly. For every project we launch, there are twenty that we set aside. We do not throw them away, we freeze them in order to launch them three, four or five years later.

The customer is at the center...

Yes, but again, we do not want to give them everything they ask for. Even though we have the ability to do everything, we do not have to.

Who is the design consumer?

Someone who wants a unique product. The Vuitton customer wants to stand out.

Will you open dedicated stores?

No, we will organize events and exhibitions, but we will not open stores.

How is distribution changing? From physical to online stores, and now everybody is talking about the metaverse...

It depends on how you look at it. From a historical perspective, distribution has always been marketplace, a concept that is rooted in the past and has been existing for 50,000 years. Then department stores appeared, then technology... When technology changes there are transformations, but it is still marketplace from a sociological perspective. So is the Internet, and the metaverse will be marketplace 3.0. The big change is that until now a marketplace was the sum of many individual entities. Now, thanks to globalization and new technologies, a single player like us can be one entity alone. Some of our recent stores include art galleries, restaurants, lounges, beauty corners and so on.

Do you believe in the metaverse?

Yes. Tomorrow, not today.

Why?

First of all, technology is not at the right level. It is not sufficient to have 50 or 100,000 people interacting simultaneously. Secondly, our pupils are not capable of seeing everything through a digital perspective.

When will we get there? Ten years from now?

Maybe we will.

At Vuitton you are always looking to the future. Is that your secret?

It is half of it because we also look to the past. For everything related to human feelings, we have to look to the past, and for everything related to technology we look to the future. The two dimensions are combined.

How is the Italian market doing?

Very well. We are well above 2019 levels and better than pre-Covid-19 levels.

How important is Italy for you?

From a creative point of view, it is essential. Salone del Mobile exists only in Italy.

Are you opening new stores?

Yes, some resort boutiques. However, the most important thing is that the main stores will be completely renovated. We started in Florence, with a store tailored to the city. The same will happen in Rome, obviously in Milan and we reopened in Turin... Italy is the homeland of the Renaissance, so the renaissance has to start from Italy.

In general, what kind of moment is it for Vuitton?

It is the beginning of a new era. The way we relate to our customers has radically changed and now it is directed from multiple perspectives. It is not a form of control but of influence.

What is the difference between controlling and influencing?

Controlling means having a dogmatic point of view. Virgil is magical in this sense. It was not a coincidence. It was a different form of engaging everyone, not only our customers but also competitors, distribution, media... We asked ourselves what role to play in this network, in an ecosystem. This is the difference between influencing and controlling. Virgil is a great example to explain this. He influenced but never controlled.

How did Virgil Abloh change your vision?

For those who knew me during my years at Louis Vuitton, some of which I spent with Virgil, I would say that we were similar in many ways. I think we strengthened each other.

What is the message he left us with?

Staying true to the 17-year-old boy in all of us. He represented the best in humanity.

As the menswear fashion shows are approaching, everyone is wondering what will happen at Louis Vuitton…

I think it is crucial to let time run its course. There was a moment to grieve Virgil's passing, which is coming to an end. The next phase is to let the creative studio have the unique opportunity to express themselves and show what they have learned, bringing something into the world. Then, there will be a follow-up period. We are now in the second phase. I am giving the studio my utmost support and trust, and I expect them to produce something spectacular. The collection that will be shown in Paris will be their work. Then we will move on to the next step.

Will there be any more surprises?

Yes, of course. The fashion show will be at the Cour Carrée du Louvre.

Why there?

Because it is the heart of France.

How do you feel ahead of the show?

Very proud.

Even in Miami, at Abloh's last fashion show, there was a lot of energy and love...

It was very emotional. And it still is. (All rights reserved)