Bulgari’s challenges for its 140th anniversary

«Bulgari aims to demonstrate that it is possible to be a leader in high jewelry by designing and producing exclusively in Italy», Jean-Christophe Babin, ceo of the Roman maison under Lvmh, explained during the grand celebration of the brand’s 140th anniversary. He added, “Our high jewelry atelier on Via Aurelia in Rome is operating at full capacity. We plan to expand from the current 100 employees to about 300 in a new, larger facility. In Valenza, we will grow from approximately 600 to 1,700 people”. Babin shared his vision for the world of jewelry in an interview with MFF on the sidelines of the event, which took place in the monumental halls of the Baths of Diocletian in Rome.

These magical and colossal spaces, enhanced by Michelangelo’s intervention in the 16th century, sparkled with the reflections of the most precious gems. Among them was a maxi necklace with 140 carats of pure diamonds, symbolizing the brand’s 140th anniversary. «The new collection is called Aeterna. We have invited all our top clients from around the world to join us here in Rome». Jewelry remains the core business of the maison, which has been part of Bernard Arnault’s group since 2011 and led by Jean-Christophe Babin as ceo since 2013.

«When I arrived, we had almost 2,000 employees. Today, including the hotels, we have over 8,000». These numbers perfectly suited the event celebrating the 140th anniversary, which featured international guests including brand ambassadors Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Liu Yifei, Shu Qi, Hikari Mori, and Alessandro Gassman. The event began with a poetic duet by choreographer and dancer Sadeck Berrabah and ballet dancer Eleonora Abbagnato, head of ballet at the Rome Opera House, blending classical and contemporary dance. The event also featured a fashion show, curated by Carine Roitfeld, with a dazzling cast of top models including Mariacarla Boscono, Blesnya Minher, Elisabetta Dessy, Isabella Rossellini, Carla Bruni, and Giacomo Cavalli.

«I am proud of our creative teams, led by Lucia Silvestri and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, as well as our master craftsmen, for crafting what I believe to be the most extraordinary high jewelry collection ever seen, not only in Bulgari’s 140-year history but quite possibly in the entire 21st century,” Babin continued. “The Serpenti Aeterna necklace represents the pinnacle of excellence. It combines the most extraordinary diamonds with the iconic Serpenti symbol, which has become the most coveted emblem in jewelry and watchmaking over recent decades. Worn by Cleopatra in Rome in 46 B.C., it was revitalized in 1948 as secret watch-jewels, thanks to the visionary spirit of the Bulgari family”.

In addition to the high jewelry creations, the Brand also unveiled its high watchmaking with the Fuochi d’artificio collection, as well as a line of one-of-a-kind high jewelry bags, and luxury fragrances. The Chiostro Ludovisi of the Baths of Diocletian hosted a spectacular jewelry exhibition, set in an intimate space constructed above the large outdoor pool of the Baths. How is the jewelry sector, Bulgari’s core business, performing? «It is doing very well. We have been investing not only in creativity but also in acquiring exceptional gemstones for many years. Substantial investments in research and gem procurement strengthen our creative department», Babin explained to MFF.

When asked about the potential for growth, he explained: «Jewelry has the highest growth potential for the future. That is why all fashion brands, from Chanel to Dior to Louis Vuitton, are also venturing into jewelry; they understand its potential. Approximately 25% of the jewelry sold worldwide is estimated to be globally branded, while 75% remains more local. It is the only luxury category where the most renowned brands constitute a minority of the total market. Therefore, there is a dual growth opportunity».

In terms of growth areas, China remains the largest market for luxury. The reopening of Macau and Hong Kong (major tourist destinations for the Chinese, ed.), demonstrates consumers’ interest. «With my fellow ceos, we have coined the term «perma-crisis» to describe the ongoing critical situation we have faced in recent years. While China has experienced a slowdown due to the real estate crisis and various government measures, it remains a key market».

 The event underscored Bulgari’s dedication to cultural heritage, especially Italian heritage. «I established the Bulgari Foundation to ensure the continuity of the numerous patronage activities we have undertaken and expanded over the years. In the next few days, our guests will have the opportunity to visit the major exhibition on Phidias at the Capitoline Museums for the first-ever exhibition of the Torlonia collection». For this occasion, the Bulgari Foundation has contributed an immersive installation by Dutch designer Sabine Marcelis, titled «Vista aeterna». This contemporary reimagining of Rome’s urban landscape is on display at Piazza di Spagna until June 15.

The event concluded in Michelangelo’s Cloister at the Baths of Diocletian with a gala dinner created by Michelin-starred chef Massimiliano Alajmo, complemented by a live performance by Elisa, who lit up the evening with a private concert. Bulgari is also financing the creation of the Museo del Mausoleo di Augusto with a contribution of 700,000 euros. Designed by renowned architect Rem Koolhaas, the Museum is set to open in 2026, along with the mausoleum, which is currently undergoing restoration. The Museum will showcase all the findings from the archaeological site, including the head of Venus discovered just over a year ago. (All rights reserved)