Brunello Cucinelli creates his lifestyle through eyewear

«It is more than just a simple licensing agreement; it is a project that embodies the Brand’s lifestyle, one that I hope to continue for decades to come», Brunello Cucinelli commented, looking ahead and explaining to MFF the value of the longstanding partnership with EssilorLuxottica for its eyewear line. This collaboration was commemorated last night in Rome with an event at Villa Aurelia, graced by the presence of Francesco Milleri, president and ceo of the group from Agordo, in the province of Belluno. «I have a deep affection for Rome and all its emperors. Hadrian once said that the city is eternal, destined to perish only with the last man on earth», the cashmere entrepreneur stated as he introduced the first eyewear collection to his esteemed guests.

Following the successful launch of an initial sunglasses capsule in 2021 with Oliver peoples, a brand under the Agordo group, the partnership between the two companies has been extended through a ten-year agreement. Effective from January 1, 2023, and spanning until December 31, 2032, the outcomes of this collaboration will soon arrive in eyewear stores and Brunello Cucinelli boutiques after Easter. Rooted in shared values, as explained by Brunello Cucinelli in this interview with MFF, this project is bolstered by a successful 2023, ended with a notable 23.9% increase in revenue, totaling almost 1,14 billion euros, and a remarkable 42% rise in net profit, reaching 123,8 million euros, corresponding to a margin of 10.9%.

The foundation of this collaboration lies in a relationship built on mutual respect between you and Luxottica’s Founder, Leonardo Del Vecchio...

Some time ago, Leonardo approached us with the idea of creating something together, and for me, it was a fantastic opportunity. Initially, we collaborated with Oliver Peoples because we share the same aesthetic taste. The idea then evolved into a direct collaboration with EssilorLuxottica. With them, we ventured into the segment of eyeglass frames for the first time. It is a project that we hope will continue in the future, with our children and grandchildren. We are two companies with an Italian soul.

The trust you shared with Del Vecchio has further solidified with Milleri...

There is a personal connection with him as well; he is from Umbria, born in Città di Castello (Perugia, ed.). I am particularly pleased because Leonardo stressed the importance of maintaining the highest quality, a value we have pursued to the fullest. Our eyewear collection is characterized by meticulous craftsmanship, precious details, extensive research on acetate sheets and color, and the lightness of titanium that echoes that of our clothing line. There are subtle nuances on the lenses of the sunglasses, ranging from full coverage to subtly tinted, which we refer to as «aperitivo style».

How did you achieve such harmony in values?

We align on the major themes we believe in. And then there is a topic I enjoy delving into, that of dynamic epigenetics, an area of research exploring how environmental factors can either stimulate or suppress the expression of our genetic heritage. In short, it scientifically measures the impact of our surroundings on our DNA and overall well-being. Whether it is a specific landscape, a beautiful work environment, or even just a window…

You mentioned you managed to convince them to remove two walls in the Agordo factory...

During a visit, I told Milleri, «Look at the mountains you have; open up two walls». And they did. Milleri said the factory they are about to complete in Japan (the Fukui site, where EssiLux produces the Made in Japan eyewear according to the craftsmanship principles of the local eyewear school, ed.) will be amazing, emphasizing the importance of infusing beauty into the industrial environment. We both share a common vision regarding working conditions.

What role does eyewear play within your brand’s ecosystem?

To me, eyewear is like fragrances (crafted in collaboration with EuroItalia, ed.), both essential elements of the human experience. While our brand primarily centers around ready-to-wear, which accounts for 85% of our offerings, and I am steadfast in maintaining this focus, glasses and fragrances symbolize our taste identity.

What do these projects represent?

These projects constitute full-fledged collections that are deeply intertwined with the Brand’s lifestyle and image, serving as representations of its identity.

Are there plans to incorporate additional elements to further enrich the Fashion House’s image?

No. These are very serious projects. Crafting our perfume demanded three years of meticulous study, and the process for our eyewear line was equally demanding. For now, these will remain the elements of our lifestyle.

According to Francesco Milleri, «EssiLux and Cucinelli are bound by a profound respect for labor»

A shared sense of purpose stemming from a common entrepreneurial vision serves as the foundation of the collaboration between Brunello Cucinelli and EssilorLuxottica. Originating years ago with Leonardo Del Vecchio, this partnership has been further solidified under the leadership of Francesco Milleri, the President and ceo of the Eyewear Company, who, like Cucinelli, hails from Umbria, as Francesco Milleri himself explained to MFF.

What values do you share?

Our strongest bond lies in our deep respect for labor and our immense admiration for the skills needed to craft unique and exceptional products.

You also share Umbrian origins...

The fact that we were both born and raised in Umbria, I believe, has contributed to our shared vision of the future. Our ties to the countryside of our region, where I try to return whenever I can, instill a profound respect for nature and its rhythms, which, as Brunello would say, are inherently aligned with creation. Living in Umbria means being enveloped in a mystique that permeates both people and surroundings. I believe this influence has shaped both of us, fostering a strong and enduring relationship.

How does this fit within your licensing portfolio?

Brunello Cucinelli has redefined luxury by infusing it with respect and dignity for labor the very essence of the Brand. Our partnership is not just an agreement. Brunello Cucinelli is not just an esteemed entrepreneur; he is also a friend whom I deeply respect and admire. The collection we have co-created under his creative direction and that of his family embodies all these values a perfect synthesis of technology and craftsmanship. (All rights reserved)