Balenciaga: «The new era of couture»

A store dedicated entirely to couture, which will celebrate the maison’s heritage by projecting it into the future. On the occasion of haute couture show number 51, scheduled for Wednesday, July 6, Balenciaga will cut the ribbon on a special boutique at George V Avenue 10 in Paris, the historic home of its Parisian ateliers, opened in 1937 by founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. The spaces were refurbished and reopened a year ago precisely on the occasion of the first couture show signed by Demna (see MFF of May 21, 2021), which marked the return to haute couture. «The concept of this store is a door to couture, which remains a very closed universe, especially for the younger generation», Cédric Charbit, Ceo of the Kering maison, explained.

«In this new store, the products, made-to-measure services and retail excellence are a reinvention of the Balenciaga customer experience. It is exciting to present such a level of craftsmanship, creativity and savoir faire made in France in our historic address». The space will go beyond the traditional concept of a salon reserved for fittings and will be the medium through which the fashion house will share its knowledge and welcome customers who wish to purchase unique products. The ground floor consists of two areas, one for women and one for men, and is connected to the couture salons. The store will offer exclusive creations such as clothing, accessories and exceptional items ranging from handicrafts to technology, available only in this location. All products will be limited editions and can be customized or modified in the ateliers, while some will be available for purchase directly after Wednesday's show, as Cédric Charbit himself anticipated in this exclusive interview with MFF.

What is the idea of couture for today?

In order to reintroduce couture into the world of Balenciaga, we set out to do something special, to push the boundaries, to reinvent what was already there, staying true to a process that Cristóbal Balenciaga carried out throughout his life. Balenciaga was a visionary, he was extremely creative and free. Bringing couture back to life was our duty because this represents our origins. And the best way to do that was to create a living couture, not something from the past. So, we set out to reinvent tradition, to look in our archives to understand where we came from and project that world into the future.

How did you find this balance between past and present?

There are two interesting elements. This is Demna's second couture collection but the 51st ever for the fashion house. This has put a lot of questions and reflections on the table. What are we doing? Why do we do it this way? If we go back to couture today it will have to be both menswear and womenswear… What are the logics of the contemporary customer? That is why we opened such a space. To better explain the project and be more transparent.

Is there a new generation of customers?

Yes. They are not necessarily couture customers but people who want to really experience this world, come to the salons, do the fittings and, at the same time, buy pieces directly from the show.

Will it then be possible to buy pieces right after the show?

Only a few products but it will be possible. There are pieces that need more fitting but there will be dresses, bags and accessories that can be purchased immediately. This model will conquer the new generation. It is a new attitude, a new way to approach this world.

What was the reaction to Demna's first couture collection?

It was extraordinary. We have so many requests from customers, both men and women from all over the world.

Is Demna happy with this?

As a designer he can approach couture with a deep desire for knowledge and immersion in the archives, looking at Cristóbal Balenciaga's legacy not simply reinterpreting it but reinventing it. This is a very important aspect of his work, which allowed the brand to regain the position it deserved. When I heard that Demna wanted to return to couture, I sensed the unique opportunity for us to bring it back to life. Everything is possible under his creative leadership.

How difficult is it to preserve the legacy and speak to new generations at the same time?

Balenciaga is an iconic French couture Maison. We have the responsibility to face multiple challenges. The street and the couture salons, as well as fashion and a timeless aesthetic. Only by combining all these elements, can we talk to the new generations. Being old does not mean to love craftsmanship and being young does not mean to love the metaverse. It is a state of mind, an attitude that is part of Balenciaga.

Do you see haute couture being mixed with the metaverse?

I am not saying that. Next week we will celebrate couture week and it is our duty to pay homage to haute couture. I am extremely proud of that.

Are you planning to open more couture stores around the world?

We have been working on this for a year. Our agenda is focused on this event.

Balenciaga is in the spotlight. Do you feel the pressure?

There is high ambition, but the moment you start thinking long-term, the pressure becomes relative. I think that with Demna everything is possible, and I really appreciate the opportunity to work with him. Kering's support was also decisive.

Why is everyone crazy about Balenciaga today?

I do not know, but we have the most talented designer of his generation, who is working with great respect for the brand.

What is the future of the Maison?

This store is definitely part of its future. (All rights reserved)