At the court of Carolina Herrera

Crystal embroideries are like chandeliers. Clouds of tulle for evening gowns in which one will never sit down. Grand ball trains. All of this mixed with mini dresses with bold stripes or floral fragments, as if it is a tapestry of a noble palace. Carolina Herrera turns up the volume on shapes for all emblazoned generations: from debutantes to progenitors of great dynasties, from the dauphines of uptown worlds to heiresses who are always in an exclusive resort.

In fact, Wes Gordon, the creative mind of the Maison, speaks of a very specific first quote, Elizabeth «Sissi» of Austria, who was able to go against the established rules in a court made her feel shackled and was ready to move to a dance beat of the Whitney Houston’s song playing during the finale. It is something not very easy to do when wrapped in the most precious cocoon, but certainly an enjoyable challenge for Herrera’s signature women who flaunt puffy skirts and minimal tops, bling bling appliqués like medals on little suits, boleros on precisely cut pants, capes and crinolines all the way to golden brocades even flaunted on a down jacket, like a true snow queen. As they are queens, not really in street terms, but because they have crowns on their heads. An aesthetic promotion for the collection that continues to elevate itself from the famous two-shot Pàp. Meanwhile, it was more couture than ready-to-wear, more empress than park-avenue-princess.

Judgment. The very American concepts of comfort, daywear and businesswoman are banished here. We can indulge in that of sport at the most, however, with a 24-k duvet. Carolina Herrera thinks about how her women live and creates a wardrobe that never goes down in tension or level. Too bad because this elitist propensity is increasingly becoming pronounced and could be a risk. It is good to see an opening rather than a closing. (All rights reserved)