Alessandro Michele: «I take fashion beyond its limits»

«I am in love with life and that is why I work in fashion», Alessandro Michele was quick to clarify in the very small talk that MFF followed in London. His dialogue was open to very little international press, moderated by Alexander Fury and organized on the occasion of the exhibition dedicated to menswear entitled «Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear», open to the public at the Victoria and Albert museum in London until next November 6 and supported by the Kering maison. A phrase that reflects the philosophy of a creative who expresses his flair regardless of the gender issue and does not back down when it comes to taking a stand. As with the outbreak of the conflict in Ukraine, when the designer explained to MFF: «I hate war. My work is life, and life is the opposite of war» (see MFF of March 3).

Thus, when the US Supreme Court was about to overrule the 1973 «Roe v. Wade» landmark decision on the right to abortion, Alessandro Michele was quick to clarify Gucci’s intentions within the framework of the chime for change project, committing to pay travel expenses for all US employees who need access to health services not made available in their home state. He is not just a designer, but a person who expresses all his humanity in his work, starting with his artistic process. «I do not have a specific one, I am always changing it. Sometimes I sketch quickly. I take note of people I meet on different occasions, people who have something amazing. Then I bring all the pieces together, always using something that can be considered wrong», he clarified during the talk, then focusing on men’s practice of dressing, which throughout history has allowed the concept of masculinity to be expressed with different styles and languages, reshaped by artists and designers over time.

Due to his work, his shows and his continuous multi-artistic research, Alessandro Michele was able to make the brand led by ceo Marco Bizzarri more than just a label, and the collections something more than just silhouettes victims of marketing. «I do not like the term unisex. I believe in the human being in general. The idea for the Exquisite line was to work on something I am obsessed with, which is the man suit. It is a piece which has conversations with everyone and talks about different identities. It is a powerful piece. Young people love to explore their femininity within their masculinity. It is interesting to play with clothes in that sense. I love the idea of chameleon-like clothes. Nothing is prohibited». And in the fashion of the future, truly nothing is prohibited. During the show, the designer stressed how, in the past, menswear nodded to women’s clothes and accessories without many taboos: «For what concerns the dialogue between femininity and masculinity, sometimes men used to wear rouches and jewels more than women. Then, the 19th century changed everything, and something happened after the Second World War. Nowadays, we live in a freer and less judgmental world. I think fashion is like nature, it changes with time».

As changeable are the trends which have found their way over the years, making themselves acceptable. This last term, according to the Kering’s designer, «is very dangerous. Clothes reflect the person wearing them and sometimes they can be a prison, like the suit». It is a piece of clothing with double ambivalence, a double-edged sword which can be synonym of power or a mask concealing a person’s true self. Alessandro Michele has reinterpreted the man suit, the protagonist of many Gucci collections, in a provocative manner with unconventional cuts and lengths, working with big stars such as singer and friend Harry Styles, with whom he made the Ha Ha Ha collection. «We have been friends for some time, and we share a passion for vintage. Harry has great instinct. Over these years, he made a path leading to great confidence when it comes to show up. It was easier for him to play with me in order to make clothes than me singing with him» (see MFF of June 21). These looks are especially loved by young people. Answering the question about what could have possibly sparked such excitement about the brand: «When I started working in fashion, I began from things which belong to my history, to my life. In the past, it was a closed world. I wanted to take it beyond its limits. I started talking with young people and considering the brand as a platform to expand ideas».

 This created a stylistic story generating beauty. Thus, to the question «What is your idea of modern beauty?», the designer poetically answered: «Beauty is not clear, it is ambiguous and delicate». A sensitive and contemporaneous idea which reflects itself in every collection and will certainly find a place in the book about the philosophy of fashion, written by him alongside Emanuele Coccia (see MFF of April 6). The future of fashion will be a matter of debate as well, son of the dialogue between past and present styles. (All rights reserved)